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When we got into town, the bus driver who handed us our bags took a look at us, smirked, and said "Good luck." Once we got onto one of Sarajevo's very spare light rail cars, I thought we might be in for a rough couple of days.
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The eternal flame in memory of military and civilian casualties in World War II. Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
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The decor was 1890s-meets-1920s, the bartender looked like Tim Burton-style Johnny Depp, and the playlist was so amazing I've been scouring the 'net ever since for the songs that we heard. Zlatna Ribica, Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
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This is the Sebilj, a century-plus-old wooden fountain in the middle of Baščaršija square, also called Pigeon Square. Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina
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Like Mostar, Sarajevo has enjoyed a rebirth. But unlike Mostar's more spare, tourist-centered vibe, Sarajevo is a city on the make — still licking its wounds in some places, but bursting with cosmopolitan charm in others. Baščaršija, Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herz
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Around the corner from the M in Museum is the spot where Gavrilo Princip shot Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, igniting the conflict that would become World War I. Princip is seen as a hero to some in Sarajevo, our tour guide told us.