cool3dpictures: Remove the mount's JIS screws around its bearing surface and into the contact cluster
cool3dpictures: After grounding yourself, pull out the flexible circuits' tabs from the main board with a soft, strong toothpick (reinstall similarly)
cool3dpictures: Or, as applicable, nudge up the flexes' tabs by their flared edges
cool3dpictures: Melt a hole with a soldering iron for the tap wires to exit under the board (route a little differently to preserve full zoom range)
cool3dpictures: Trim extra plastic from access hole with a sharp, sturdy hobby or utility knife (note basic placement's relation to interior structure)
cool3dpictures: Flatten out your wires' ends, tin them, and trim them to compact flat pads
cool3dpictures: Set each wire's pad on a contact solder point on the board's reverse, oriented toward access hole, and warm with the iron to meld
cool3dpictures: Return the board to its original orientation and start one wire through the hole at a time, labeling its pinout as you go
cool3dpictures: Ease the board back into position, then reconnect the flexes, replace the mount, and refasten all screws