SewLibra:
For the first time ever I joined the Upcycle Contest on Patternreview.com. I'm using this wrap skirt I've had for well over 20 years. I used to wear it to work occasionally but it's quite narrow and hard to walk in. I had even torn the back vent!
SewLibra:
The contest requires a pic of the upcycle "fabric" before it's taken apart. This is the front view. The elastic was shot so the the skirt almost fell off me. After I hand washed it the elastic grew to twice it's size!
SewLibra:
The back has a center seam and those two panels are really narrow. Not sure if I can figure out a way to place all the pattern pieces on it. I could make a simple tee or tank, but this is a contest so I want something with more style.
SewLibra:
The skirt is 100% rayon and quite fragile from age. The waistband has four row of stitches to take out. It was difficult but in the end that gave me four additional inches. Oh...and I haven't been size small in a LONG time. LOL.
SewLibra:
Here is the skirt laid out before taking it apart. The rules state not to do that until April 1st, and this being the end of March I'll go ahead and make pattern alterations since this is a new to me pattern and first wrap top.
SewLibra:
A previous review stated NL6700 runs small and I agree. From tissue fitting my dress form I decided to go with size 16 instead my usual 14.
SewLibra:
After I cut my muslin from an old sheet I went ahead and lowered the dart 1.5". That looked about right from my dress form tissue fitting.
SewLibra:
I sewed the main pieces but not the facing or sleeve hems. I did machine hem the peplum and used a smaller seam allowance to see if that would make it a little longer.
SewLibra:
There's a 1.5" gap at bust level, and I'm an inch bigger than that, so I'll need to add 2.5" plus ease. Well, we'll see what happens.
SewLibra:
It's hard to see but I pressed a crease at center front. Definitely need that FBA and it should bring up the neckline too. Geez I hope so!
SewLibra:
Pulling at the upper back, however the FBA will add width and my rayon fabric is very thin. I really don't want to mess with the back if I don't have to, but it looks a little too long..
SewLibra:
Whooo boy. Muslin 2 (aqua) was just front and back with a 3" FBA. I still couldn't get the center fronts to meet. For muslin 3 I used the same back but a whopping 4.5" FBA. Never had to do that much and my first wrap pattern to boot. Wah!
SewLibra:
The 4.5 FBA skewed the armscye badly. I reseached and most said that when you fold down the dart, the arrmhole will straighten out. Well mine didn't! I used the original pattern front and drew in the proper bottom curve. In the end glad I did.
SewLibra:
Close-up of the finished FBA. At this point I don't know if the waist will hit where it's supposed to, but it was a little short anyway and I'm short waisted. Will have to see on the real fabric 'cause not doing another muslin. Sigh.
SewLibra:
I lengthened the back to match the front, with the dart folded down. I thought I might need a swayback adjustment, wish I had done it at this point.
SewLibra:
The FBA added width along with length, so I split the amount in two places on the front peplum to match the front pieces. For curves you really have to or the shape will be off.
SewLibra:
From my first muslin I knew I wanted to add length to the sleeves. I added 1" below the armscye to preserve the curved hem shape.
SewLibra:
What's with the Wonder Woman pose? Hahaha. Anyway, with the 4.5" FBA the center fronts finally meet and I can proceed!
SewLibra:
On the last muslin I decided to shorten the dart to 1.25" away from the apex. I kept the original lowering of the dart.
SewLibra:
First I unpicked the center back seam and side seam to release one of the narrow back panels. That way I would have 3 panels intact, one of them the overlay. Taking out the waistband was tedious! Lots of time under this magifier.
SewLibra:
I knew before starting I wouldn't be able to pattern match or even put the print where I wanted. The front piece was much larger due to the FBA and barely fit on the largest piece between seams! I was able to get both fronts though, single layer.
SewLibra:
I had to create a center seam in the back, here adding the seam allowances. Had to do the same with the back peplum. Unfortunately I had to cut one of the front peplum pieces on the bias which caused trouble later.
SewLibra:
I used tricot Pellon EK-130 for the facings. The black fabric is a lightweight poly from my stash for the facings and ties. I interfaced the fabric first then cut the pieces out. Quite a time saver as I'm on a time restraint. The contest ends April 30th.
SewLibra:
As always I sewed in one line of shirring on the sleeve caps with my Bernina 1008 instead of fiddling around with gathering. I sewed the sleeves in flat instead of in the round.
SewLibra:
I pressed in a 1/2" hem on the sleeves, serged the fraying raw edges, and machine stitched in place. I usually topstitch on the right side but didn't want to miss the edge where it's a little narrower under the arm.
