SewLibra:
Plum Chunky Waffle Knit in deep plum. I didn't realize what an open weave this was when I ordered it from Cali Fabrics two years ago. 77% rayon/22% poly/1% spandex. 50% horizontal stretch/25% vertical stretch. Advertised as medium weight but it's light.
SewLibra:
Jalie 3667, Marie-Claude raglan pullovers. Will be using View C with a turtleneck, no hood.
SewLibra:
Decided on the Jalie raglan pattern 3667, Marie-Claude, I used in 2018 ALSO with difficult fabric! This waffle knit cut easily but I didn't think I had anything that would mark on it so made tailor's tacks. Later I remembered I had white soap slivers.
SewLibra:
I started by using Wonder Clips because I figured pins would fall out. However the clips are quite heavy for this surprisingly lightweight knit, and I didn't have enough of them for all the seams. The sticky dot means "wrong side".
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Still, I can see the underarm hangs way too low just as the first time I made this pattern. The arrow is where my real underarm is!
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Here's the back, such as it is with the clips. I have broad shoulders for my size so I think the back will be fine at the raglan seams, and there's enough room at waist and hips.
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Went ahead and sewed the raglan sleeves and pinned the rest. Too much fabric at the front arm and twisting sleeves again. Something about raglans and twisting! Will definitely wear a cami underneath by the way.
SewLibra:
I quickly basted a small area under the arm to see if that would help, and it did. On to the cutting table. I'm not in love with the fabric so I don't really care if it all goes awry.
SewLibra:
I saw an idea online so here goes. On the front only, in my case, I used my rotary cutter to create a curve in the raglan seams and remove some fabric. The soap sliver worked great for marking on this highly textured knit.
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Next I took a wedge off under the arm at the side seam, blending into the side seam. I had to straighten and true the side seam after that.
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Repeated the same procedure on the other front, then folded the garment and compared to make sure both sides were the same. I cut in at the underarm 1" for this loose stretchy fabric.
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I'll be finishing seams with my serger but I like to sew first. All seams will be sewn with 2.5 X 2.5 zig zag to allow stretch.
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After serging the raglan seams I pressed and used a clapper to set the press and absorb moisture. This fabric is "springy" and doesn't like to stay down!
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After assembling the two piece turtleneck collar I pressed the seams open to avoid bulk. No serger wanted here. In the end this will be folded down creating 4 layers at the seamlines.
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Before attaching the collar to the neckline it needs to be folded and the edges zig zagged together. This will make it easier to insert and not have to keep three layers even.
SewLibra:
The instructions have you pin the collar inside the bodice and sew it that way. NOT my favorite way and I wish I had done it with the collar on the outside like I usually do. I did not get a good result.
SewLibra:
Trying to pick out the stitches that were buried into this weave was not going to happen. Instead I marked a line inside the previous line and resewed. The problem was only in the front part thank goodness.
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Serging the collar seam. Just showing how rough and uneven the edges of this fabric got through handling even though I tried to be careful.
SewLibra:
Time to attach the cuffs and this time I am not going to follow directions and do it how I like. I pinned the cuff to the outside on the right side of the sleeve. First the cuffs were folded and zig zagged at the edges just as the collar was.
SewLibra:
After zig zagging the cuffs on I serged them. I love it since I learned how to make a neat ending when sewing in the round. It's from a Jennifer Stern sewing video called "How to Start and Stop in the Round".
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I pressed and used Wonder Clips for the hem, then on to my coverstitch machine, Janome 900 CPX.
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What a beautiful invisible hem! I didn't even need to change the settings as the stitches just sunk into the fabric.
SewLibra:
My sweater was done but the collar would not stay down due the springy fabric. I knew it would bug me so I pinned it down and zig zagged around the edge. I was nervous because I knew I wouldn't be able to remove the stitches without snagging the fabric.
SewLibra:
The stitching down of the collar looks okay, whew! I would rather not have to do that but I can't stand a collar too high up under my chin, Next will be pics of me wearing it...after the Superbowl which is day after tomorrow!
SewLibra:
Now to transfer my changes to the pattern. My sweater was about 3/4" shorter in front than back. That's an adjustment I always make but didn't the first time I made this. I cut a horizontal line to but not through the side seam and pivoted down 3/4".
SewLibra:
Here is the front lowered 3/4" at the center front with paper filled in underneath and taped. This way does not change the curved hem or side seams. Easy!
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I tried copying what I did under the arms when I cut out the extra fabric, but I'm being conservative because not all fabrics are as "loose" as the waffle knit. This is the FRONT piece.
SewLibra:
I made the same adjustments on the FRONT of the sleeve piece where it connects to the FRONT bodice piece. In my case I didn't need the adjustments in the back.
SewLibra:
Front view Jalie Marie Claude. The photos wearing this all came out looking purple instead of the true dark plum it actually is.
