SewLibra:
Using Itch to Stitch Lago Tank again. I'm using a 96% cotton/4% lycra olive knit from my stash.
SewLibra:
Last time I added to the back to hide bra straps, but it wasn't enough. I used a RTW tank to trace the shoulder width and armscye. The armscye was the same on the pattern, just needed to be further out to accommodate the wider shoulder.
SewLibra:
The RTW had bands, as I'm going to do too, so I marked 3/8" to cut off. I use a 3/8" SA for bands, and my finished bands are 1/2" wide. Should work out similar to the RTW in width. That's the plan anyway - lol.
SewLibra:
I have my "extension" on the bottom with the shoulder and armscye point lined up. You only need to use the amount of pattern paper needed for the change.
SewLibra:
When I make extensions for my patterns I make lines and notes on where to attach it. I would get confused if I make this in a year or two and hadn't done that!
SewLibra:
My extension is done (I could cut it shorter, under the armscye if I want) and it will be pinned on when I make a tank. I want to keep the deep racer back version for summer nightgowns. I have several and they're cool to sleep in.
SewLibra:
The front shoulder needs to match the back shoulder now. I decided to split the difference, a little on each side and blend in to the strap.
SewLibra:
Here is the front extension done. I used a pink highlighter so I can see it better when I pin it on. Frankly this pattern is getting very used so I may end up tracing a separate version for the tank vs. nightgown. Let's see how this works first though!
SewLibra:
I had already done the FBA the first time I made this pattern, but here are my finished alterations to take out more of that racer back.
SewLibra:
Lately I've found better results with neck bands by pinning in the center front and center back, and from there stretching the band little by little as if I were sewing it. Stretch and pin, repeat.
SewLibra:
I always use the free arm on my sewing machine to sew on bands. If it looks good then on to the serger using it's free arm as well. Sew a ways, then pull the fabric toward you from under the free arm, repeat. Visibility is so much better!
SewLibra:
Finished neck band, serged inside and topstitched under the seam line on the outside. The lighter "stripe" where the seam allowance is, is from pressing and will go away when laundered.
SewLibra:
The part bulging out is the front side bust under the armscye. The pattern is drafted with it plus I rotated a dart in the past there. On this version it's too much. I took out the stitches on that part of both sides.
SewLibra:
After basting both sides and trying on the top I knew it was okay to cut off the excess side bust.
SewLibra:
Now on to the armscye bands that are done the same as the neck band was. Here I stretched as if I were sewing to determine the length. Do this by folding the top at the shoulder seam and armscye seam.
SewLibra:
After coverstitching the hem I like to leave long threads so I can pull the upper threads to the back and tie them off. I used to not do this as they say a coverstitch locks, but I did have one come out once!
SewLibra:
I decided to make a navy blue tank to go with my latest Alina Chi Town shorts. It was easy to pin on the extensions I had made to reduce the racer back.
SewLibra:
Making strips for neck and arm bands with this curly French Terry. The snack clips work well to keep the fabric in place on the mat and table.