SewLibra:
Very pleased with the newly renovated JoAnn store! They have more garment fabric and very organized. I got this New Look pattern, a palm leaf print, double brushed poly and some notions.
SewLibra:
Change of plans. That New Look pattern was ridiculous! The front and back were basically just huge rectangles. Might as well use plain paper and draft my own, so decided on the Jalie Vanessa again.
SewLibra:
Will be using this 70% rayon/30% linen blend sage palm print for this pattern. I have enough for both pants and shorts since I got the end roll!
SewLibra:
Decided to make a mini summer collection of pants, shorts and tops. Ordered this linen/rayon blend off-white for a short sleeved layering piece and a sage green cotton lawn for a top. I also have an olive knit in my stash for a tee and tank.
SewLibra:
I was going to make an exposed 2" elastic waistband as I did on my last knit pants, but in the end followed the Vanessa instructions using the elastic within the waistband casing and topstitched.
SewLibra:
Used Design Plus bias fusible stay tape to support the pocket edges on the front pieces.
SewLibra:
Using a ham to press the sewn curved front pockets before understitching. Pressing is important to get the best results!
SewLibra:
I always use an edge stitch foot with short blade for understitching. You can't go wrong with your stitching being straight and even. Not to be confused with a stitch-in-the-ditch foot that has a long blade.
SewLibra:
A seam roll is perfect for pressing long pants side seams and inseams. Start at the hem, press, and continue to push the roll up until you get to the waist. Like a snake! Lol.
SewLibra:
Waist casing is pinned in place. I used painter's tape to mark the opening for the 2" elastic insertion. I made my opening 2.5" long. This time I'm not using grommets or ties so the waistband will look the same all around.
SewLibra:
I have two sizes of this notion for pulling elastic through casings. This is the large size. The trick is to hold on to the ring that keeps the clip secure the entire time you feed. Make sure it's all the way down and holding the elastic tightly.
SewLibra:
After elastic insertion and determining the length and comfort, I marked both ends where they should meet. Then I lined up the two lines and pinned in place for sewing together.
SewLibra:
To me the easiest way with the best vision to sew the elastic is to have the garment to the back of the machine and elastic in the front. I made 3 evenly spaced rows of zig zag stitches to securely join the elastic.
SewLibra:
After my three rows of zig zag stitches I used pinking shears to cut the excess off both elastic ends. Actually I had forgotten that serging like I did the last time works better. Oh well, next time!
SewLibra:
After elastic insertion and closing the insertion hole by machine, time to stretch and make two rows of stitching. I don't mark the lines, instead I measured and it's 5/8" from the edge on the first row and 1 3/8" from the edge on the second row.
SewLibra:
Finished waistband. The pants are done except the hem now, but turned out kind of baggy under the belly and upper thigh.
SewLibra:
Since I already serged all the seams during construction I could only do so much. I took in 1/2" at each side seam and center front. That helped somewhat and they might shrink a bit if I dry all the way in the dryer too.
SewLibra:
Pants are done here except hem. Will take pics wearing them when all the pieces are made.
SewLibra:
I used 1" Knit-N-Stable fusible tape to give the hems a little heft. The pants were 1.5" too long but I left it all within the hem folds. I topstitched at 1" from the bottom. If they shrink I can let the hems down.