SewLibra:
Using Rag & Bone matte black stretch double knit, rayon/spandex with 4-way stretch from Mood. This time I'm going to use a 2" wide exposed elastic waistband instead of front fly. My pattern is a mashup of the Closet Case Sasha and Alina Chi-Town Chinos.
SewLibra:
When I first concocted this pattern in 2019/2020, I made front and back leg extensions for a straight leg instead of the original tapered leg in case I wanted that for some styles. I'm using them here, pinned to the horizontal placement line I had made.
SewLibra:
Even though it's a straight leg from the knee down, I left the leg curve from the Closet Case Sasha when I made this "Frankenpattern". In retrospect, perhaps I should have made it straight from the hip down to be more dressy, but I do like a fitted pant!
SewLibra:
Good thing there wasn't nap in this fabric! And what a waste, but the only way I could get the last front piece cut. I usually buy extra fabric and cut in the same direction, but not this time.
SewLibra:
The double knit is quite heavy at 322 GSM. I felt it was way too heavy for the pocket bags so I found some lightweight black knit in my stash for that. I won't put anything heavy in them!
SewLibra:
First I sewed the darts then pinned the fronts and backs together from waist through upper hip. I wanted to see how well that would pull up over my hips since using an elastic waist. I kept the darts since my elastic is merely replacing a regular WB.
SewLibra:
Using the slant pockets from the Alina Chi-town Chino pattern. These are the front pocket facings (double knit fabric) and the sticky dots represent the wrong side. I'm not making any back pockets because I want a dressier look.
SewLibra:
The facings are now serged around the edges and pinned into place on the pocket bag of the first pocket. Repeat for second pocket. I used the Chi-Town instructions.
SewLibra:
Pockets done and center seams sewn on front and back pieces. The bottom of the pocket bag is Frenched seamed and since the pocket bag is folded there are no seams on the inner sides of the bags.
SewLibra:
Showing the outside of the pockets. I didn't mention it before, but in the pattern stage I took out the curve from upper hip to waist for more room so had to change the pockets pieces as well so it would all match up.
SewLibra:
This is the third time I've used my pants pattern so I trust the crotch curve. I went ahead and serged the seam allowance (SA), pressed to one side, and topstiched with an edge stitch foot close to the seam to keep the SA down.
SewLibra:
I used to assemble pants with the method of sewing the crotch curve while in a U shape but some patterns (like jeans) have you sew the inseam from hem, across the crotch, to other hem. That's what I did this time, then serged and topstitched.
SewLibra:
At this point I tried on the pants using Wonder Clips at the side seams to see how it was going and how much SA to take. I stuck with the original 5/8". I had added 1" to the length but ended up cutting it off.
SewLibra:
Oh no! Dreaded under butt wrinkles! But, the waistband is not sewn on, it's merely holding up the raw edges. Still, this didn't happen with the two other times in woven fabric. I pulled the fabric up under the band, I pulled it down, nothing helped.
SewLibra:
First I unpicked the side seams in the hip and took a smaller SA for more hip room. Didn't help. I consulted my books/tutorials and saw this about the upper back inseam.
SewLibra:
I chalked in that alteration and used a zipper foot to baste it in the back inseam. Of course it's too late for the proper alteration since it's serged and topstitched, but I just wanted to see for next time.
SewLibra:
Yes that helped, but I had to take it out because it needs to be done in the pattern. Had I left it there it would be weird plus it shortened my back rise. AND...the WB is still not sewed on.
SewLibra:
This is the alteration I'll make to my knit version of this pattern. I also plan to shorten the back inseam a little more so I can stretch it to meet the front crotch point. That helps the back inseam tuck under the bum better.
SewLibra:
Before starting on the waistband I turned the pants inside out and used my seam roll to press the side seams. Just keep pushing the roll up until it comes out the other end!
SewLibra:
On my 2" wide elastic, which is soft and comfy by the way, I serged both raw ends. I pulled the tails back through, trimmed, and used Fray Block.
SewLibra:
I sewed the band ends together to create a circle with 1/2" SA, then secured the edges on each side to the band with a zig zag stitch.
SewLibra:
Right side of band. After it the pants were all done I went back and put a zig zag right over the center seam for extra strength.
SewLibra:
I started by lining up the WB seam with the back pants seam, then quartered with pins, then half of each quarter, and once more. I don't want to have to stretch the elastic too far or I might not get it even.
SewLibra:
This is the zig zag setting I used to attach the elastic. I thought about using my coverstitch instead, but when I've done this before I zig zagged then serged off the SA, which looks nice and neat on the inside.
SewLibra:
After the elastic was sewn on, I serged the raw edge with the knives DISENGAGED. You don't want to cut into the elastic. I don't even know what would happen, but I don't want to know. Ha!
SewLibra:
The band is on and it ended up 1 5/8" wide. I've used this same 2" elastic on sweatpants before and I love the comfort of the width. When the pants are on, all those gathers smooth out.
SewLibra:
Close up of 2" wide exposed elastic waistband. I'm happy with the band, the front, leg width, back thigh and general fit.
