SewLibra:
Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt. I'm using View A in the C cup option with front placket, collar stand, and sleeve plackets. I'll cut size 14, my usual to fit my neck and shoulders. Finished measurement are provided on this pattern.
SewLibra:
For my first time using this pattern I bought a thick navy blue flannel from Cali Fabrics. I'm going to use gold thread for topstitching and bronze buttons, as I'll be wearing this as a layering piece over jeans.
SewLibra:
View A and View B have separate cutting lines on the front piece. I cut out View B then will fold under the edge for cutting the fabric for View A. This way I don't have to retrace if I want View B in the future.
SewLibra:
These three pieces of View A don't have to be traced. They're the same for all sizes. The front placket is extra long and you are to cut the end off after it's sewn to the front.
SewLibra:
First try on. Neck fits well and I think once the sleeves are on with the 1/2" seam allowance they will be fine. I had already shortened the front and back 1 1/2" but I'll do another 1/2" for a total of 2".
SewLibra:
I pinned the cuff to the sleeve and marked all the seam allowances. I like a 23" long finished sleeve and the pattern is 25". I shortened the sleeve 2" by folding at the lengthen/shorten line.
SewLibra:
Carefully trying on my pinned paper sleeve and cuff. The cuff will be 1/2" shorter when sewn so this looks good! I can't move my arm down or might tear my paper.
SewLibra:
Not going to sew in the sleeve placket for a muslin, so cut at the slit mark on the sleeve, pinned on the cuff, then slit the cuff in the same place. I pressed in the seam allowances then sewed it on.
SewLibra:
Right side of muslin sleeve with pleats and cuff. I'm only making one sleeve. My muslins are BASIC! Lol.
SewLibra:
My Brother SB4138 has a variable basting stitch so you can have it longer than 5.0 mm. I used it for the sleeve cap and it was a lot easier to gather. Still, I prefer one line of shirring with elastic thread for the real version.
SewLibra:
Here's my finished sleeve and I think the length is right for me. I prewashed my flannel but if it shrinks more I'll still be okay. Shoulder fit is good. Pic coming up with my arm down later. Ha!
SewLibra:
The armscye seems good but out of curiosity I wanted to check it against my RTW flannel shirt. It's slightly shorter but big enough to fit over a tee or thin sweater.
SewLibra:
Sleeve and shoulder seam looking good. The hem is curved but I have just the front part pinned up at 1/2" for hem. After this I went ahead and folded out another 1/2" of front/back length to total 2". I want it long though to wear as a "shacket".
SewLibra:
Well...I knew I was going to have to lower and shorten the bust dart but couldn't do it until the muslin was made. The pin is marking my apex.
SewLibra:
On top is the pattern front piece. The BP you see is the pattern's bust point which I had not erased yet. I transferred my new bust point with a pin to my muslin front, then marked it.
SewLibra:
Next I cut a box around the dart and moved it down 1 1/4", slightly pointing up to the new bust point. I shortened the dart a bit as well to be 1 1/4" away from the apex.
SewLibra:
To fill in the space where I had cut the box, and so that I can true the dart, I taped paper underneath. Sorry for the folds. Forgot to take a pic before folding the dart, so unfolded it and took the pic.
SewLibra:
Bring the bottom dart leg up to the top dart leg and match it all across the dart. This way the dart uptake will be folded downward, same as when you press it down on the final fabric. Pin in place, draw a line to true the side and cut on the line.
SewLibra:
My finished front piece with lowered dart. Now to transfer it to my muslin and try it on!
SewLibra:
No need to cut another front, just sew a scrap of fabric to the seam allowance. Use enough to redraw the new dart at the side. Pattern is underneath and muslin is on top.
SewLibra:
Place the pattern on top of the muslin and redraw the new dart on the attached scrap, then cut on your lines. I'm pointing to show my muslin fabric stretched out with all the pressing I've done, so I'll cut that off to be just like the pattern.
SewLibra:
AND it grew at the hem. Argh! It's just woven cotton, didn't think it would do that! This isn't much of a difference so I think it'll be okay.
SewLibra:
Transferring the new dart point to the wrong side of my muslin. I matched up the shoulder, armscye notch and side seam then simply folded back the paper and marked. I didn't take it apart at the shoulder because I had sewn the yoke via burrito method.
SewLibra:
The width of the dart at the side seam stays the same. I used a ruler to draw the dart legs from side notches to bust point, here in pink. Old dart above in blue. Distance is 1 1/4" from apex to dart point.
SewLibra:
Much better, the dart is pointing toward the bust point at the same angle as originally designed. However, I want to shorten the dart more as this is too close to the apex for my liking.
SewLibra:
I backed down the dart point 1/2" from the previous one, which makes it 1 3/4" away from the bust point. I redrew the legs from original notches at the side to new point. I'm not going to resew and try on again, just going to trust this.
SewLibra:
I use Pellon EK-130 knit (tricot, stretch)fusible interfacing for wovens as well as knits. It's very lightweight and bonds well. Since my flannel is heavy I'm trimming 1/2" all around.
SewLibra:
There is no interfacing pattern piece for the front plackets. One for buttons, one for buttonholes. I folded my interfacing and used a ruler/rotary cutter to get my 29" pieces. It's more accurate than trying to cut a single layer that long.
SewLibra:
So many interfacing pieces! I used a Wonder Clip to secure the fabric, pattern piece, and interfacing to each piece.
SewLibra:
I saw on the Liesl + Co. sewalong, in the comments section, many were confusing the part you cut off on View A as the actual placket. It is NOT! Throw it away or get it out of your sight because it won't work for the placket.
