SewLibra:
The Itch to Stitch Vienna tank has a choice of ruffles at the neckline which I did not use. The yoke can be woven with a knit bodice or you can use all woven. I made one in all woven and one in all knit. I much prefer the drape of the knit.
SewLibra:
For the final version I used a navy ponte knit from my fabric stash and I purchased this red, white and blue woven trim. Hoped to get it done by 4th of July but that didn't happen. At least it's still July!
SewLibra:
I used this cranberry cotton double gauze for the muslin. This was my first time using gauze and it turned out to not have the drape I had hoped for. Also the color looked dull to me.
SewLibra:
According to the finished measurements I needed a 2" FBA to have a comfortable ease. Decided to do a pivot and slide method since this pattern does not have darts and has a wide hem already. I added 1/2" to each front and back to give me 2".
SewLibra:
This top is short and ends at the high hip. I lengthened it 2" for the muslin but changed to 1 1/2" for the second version. I'm 5'3" so that worked for me using the recommended 3/4" hem.
SewLibra:
After a try on I still needed more bust room. Fortunately you have plenty of room on the center front folds to adjust. Instead of the given 1 7/8" provided for each side I used 1 1/2". I think the measurement chart is wrong though!
SewLibra:
By using less of the center front folds it doesn't lie as it should at the neckline. Once you have the center seam sewed simply trim it off to make the neckline rounded again.
SewLibra:
The front armscye gaped a lot on me. Usually it's the back armscye I need to take a wedge at the shoulder. To prevent taking the whole yoke apart I cut off and tapered the front bottom arm hole. There went some of my FBA!
SewLibra:
Side seams are pinned here. I had taken 5/8" off the front armhole and that worked, so I will transfer the change on the pattern at the top of the shoulder where it's sewn to the yoke. Pic coming up later.
SewLibra:
The look was boxy so I added a slight curve to the waist then transferred that to the pattern. I keep this "side curve" that I took from another pattern a long time ago and use it often. Faster than getting out the French curve each time!
SewLibra:
So here's the finished muslin. Not thrilled with my fabric so looking forward to the knit version. Oh! Forgot to mention I moved the V neck up one inch. It was low enough to where I wouldn't want to bend over. Lol.
SewLibra:
Here is where I made the gaping front arm hole alteration. 5/8" wedge tapering to zero at the neckline. For now I'm going to fold it instead of cut it off, to be sure it's the right amount. I did not change the back shoulder, the back armscye was fine.
SewLibra:
All set to cut the "real" top. 2" FBA, 1 1/2" longer, side curve and front arm hole wedge. Using my laser level again for the grainline. I love that thing!
SewLibra:
I had to piece together the inner yoke. Added a seam allowance and made a center seam. Now is the time to add your label or use some type of mark for "Inner Yoke". You'll need it later. Fortunately this is on the inside.
SewLibra:
Using stay tape on the armholes is optional but since the instructions suggest it I did it. Design Plus bias fusible tape is what I used, then serged the edges since they will be folded under and get friction from movement.
SewLibra:
I used Design Plus straight fusible tape for the center fronts. Both my bias and straight tapes are 3/8" wide, as are all the seam allowances. This came in handy later.
SewLibra:
They have you turn under all four armholes and sew right off the bat. You are to leave 2" unsewn by the side seam on all of them.
SewLibra:
On the right is how they looked right out of the machine. I thought "Oh no, that looks terrible!" But on the left is after pressing and it's fine. I don't know what's going to happen in the wash, but I can finger press while damp or give them a press.
SewLibra:
Instead of using 2 lines of stitching (in a 3/8" SA!) I used one row of shirring with elastic thread. I always do this for gathering because it never fails to come out nice and even. My Bernina 1008 is what I use for it.
SewLibra:
My gathering looks great! If you steam above (not on) the shirring for a bit it will tighten up further. I measured the distance of the dots on the yoke piece and made sure my gathering would fit well. It did!
SewLibra:
When they say make sure the armhole edge of front is pushed all the way against the armhole seam of yokes, this is what it looks like. Pin there first. If it's not all the way to the edge you'll have a misaligned armhole.
SewLibra:
This is one of the front piece's gathered shoulder between the two yokes. I used lots of pins so my edges and gathering stay in place while I sew the seam. I sewed slowly taking out the pins as I went along.
SewLibra:
Before going any further I turned it right side out and checked my gathering and armhole edges. It's a go! Glad I don't have to do it over. Ha!
SewLibra:
Time to clip the elastic thread I used for gathering and remove it. Cut every inch or so and pull them out, then the other side with regular thread pulls right out. Easy as long as you sewed in the seam allowance.
SewLibra:
Now repeat the process for the other front shoulder and yokes. Note the position of the inner yoke. This is one of the two times it's important that you know which is which. On my muslin I used a sticky dot. On this one I have that seam and my label.
SewLibra:
This is NOT a true burrito yoke method, I've done plenty of those. This is simpler and for this pattern it works. Roll up the two fronts and push them up inside the yokes.
SewLibra:
Position the back piece as instructed and line up the dots on all three pieces. Back, outer yoke and inner yoke. Pin in place.
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Good grief that's a lot of pins! I don't care, I don't want anything to move. That big spot is the light shining from my magnifying light overhead. Thank goodness not a stain. Lol.
SewLibra:
This is the other time you need to know which is the inner yoke. To prepare for understitching the armholes you need to press toward the inner yoke. Otherwise you'll end up understitching on the outside of the armholes.
SewLibra:
Once all that was done I turned it right side out and gently used a point turner in all 4 corners of the yoke. After each step I had turned it to the right side to check the work, then back where it was easily. Nope, not a true burrito method at all.
