SewLibra:
New Look 6644 Cargo Pants. Front view. This was my first make from this pattern and there is a separate album for it here on my Flickr.
SewLibra:
The fabric I'm using is a gray heather French terry, extra heavy weight at 419 GSM, 12 - 14 oz. It's super soft. The wrong side has loops that make a mess when cut on the cross grain. I had to vacuum after each sewing session, it was everywhere!
SewLibra:
This French terry curled like the dickens on the cut edges. This is how my fabric length looked after laundering. I knew I was in for a struggle.
SewLibra:
My inspiration for using reverse coverstitch on the pockets, side seams and hems came from this man's sweatpants ad. I decided to put my label there as well, a first for me. These are to lounge in at home anyway.
SewLibra:
I always start with the pockets and get them done first. These are the back pockets. With the top folded down right sides together I stitched a 5/8" line on all the raw edges, forming a facing. Trimmed the facing edges to avoid bulk.
SewLibra:
Next I pressed under the edges along the 5/8" stitching and added my label before turning the top edge into it's proper position.
SewLibra:
The French terry was too thick to make a double fold as per instructions, but that raw edge will be held down with coverstitching. I used Stitch Witchery in the facing fold to keep the fabric together and to offer a little stability at the pocket edge.
SewLibra:
I have pins on the right side of the pockets to hold the edges in place as this fabric is so floppy! Here I am reverse coverstitching so that the right side of the pocket will have a decorative stitch.
SewLibra:
I know...you can barely see it in the pics, but in person you can. I had experimented with contrast thread, black and also red. In the end I chose a light gray as dark gray didn't show at all.
SewLibra:
For the side pockets that will be on the thighs, I couldn't make them as drafted because of my fabric's thickness. I already knew I was leaving off the flaps as I didn't want to use any hardware on my soft sweatpants, but I had forgotten about this step!
SewLibra:
The side pockets are drafted as three pieces, one is the flap, so I'm working with only two pieces. I played around with the pieces and decided to cut 2" off the band to end up with the size pockets I wanted.
SewLibra:
I used the front and back pants tracing with alterations I made last time for this version, but I had to narrow down the waist and yoke since this fabric is very stretchy. After getting the waist where I wanted it I folded the yoke piece to fit.
SewLibra:
My pockets are all made, except the side seam pockets, the yoke is sewn on as well as my back pockets. So far it's going well!
SewLibra:
Time to begin on the side seam pockets and I had to cut them down due to changing the waist. I had already cut them out so just put one underneath, trimmed it to fit, and used that one to cut the other three.
SewLibra:
The only thing I have to say here is out of frustration. The curling and fraying! Arghh!
SewLibra:
Side pockets have been sewn to front and back with a 3/8" SA. The instructions don't tell you this but next serge the side seams separately as they will be pressed open. Here I have marked the 5/8" SA above and below the pocket opening.
SewLibra:
French terry does not like to take a press. I used my clapper a lot! This step is where you need to press open the side seams. The side (thigh) pockets will hold down the SA somewhat but I'm going to reverse coverstitch mine to match the pocket decor.
SewLibra:
Instead of trying to trace the topstitching lines for the side seam pockets, I carefully measured the lines from the pattern and used a ruler. On the right my stitching is done and marks removed. It looks better than on my first make of this pattern!
SewLibra:
I serged around the pocket edges and clipped the SA so the pocket lies flat. On the raw edge of the SA I cut, I used the over cast foot on my sewing machine and it kind of chewed it up. I did the best I could then dabbed it with Fray Check.
SewLibra:
Reverse coverstitching the side seam from directly under the pocket to the hem. It always feels strange to me when I do this method, as the fabric is upside down! I love the larger harp area Janome CS machines have for projects like this.
SewLibra:
Since each front was sewn to one back at the side seam, the inseam is sewn next. After sewing one inseam I tried on the "half a pant" to see if the center seam and crotch seam will be ok with 5/8" or if I'll need more or less. 5/8" was fine.
SewLibra:
I'm not happy with the looks of the inside of these pants. Even though I used the differential feed on my serger the seams came out wavy. I tamed them with steam and a clapper but I don't know what will happen when I launder them.
SewLibra:
Again I used the Jalie 3461 Eleonor waistband. I did the same as my camo cargo pants with 2" wide elastic but they came up too high. I cut a new waistband by narrowing the pattern by 1/2" (cut center line and overlapped) and used 1" elastic.
SewLibra:
Using the coverstitch to sew the elastic in the fold of the two piece waist band. I love this method. No stretching while sewing and no twisting while wearing!
SewLibra:
Coverstitching the second row of stitching using the edge of the clear part of my foot as a guide, same as I did on the first row.
SewLibra:
The thickness of the French terry took some of the width to go over the elastic's edge. I had to trim a little off so the edges would match. That was a new one...I've made the Jalie WB at least a dozen times!
SewLibra:
I serged the two piece waistband together since it frays so badly. On the second end I broke a needle going over the elastic. Oops!
SewLibra:
The edges are machine basted together for ease of sewing onto the pant's waist in the usual way. The back piece of the Jalie WB is shorter than the front piece, hence the sticky dot with a "B" for back.
SewLibra:
The waistband went on fine but serging the seam allowance of it was hard on my serger! Anyway, all done including the hems which I reverse coverstitched to match the rest.
