SewLibra:
I've made this Burda pattern twice before and it's made for wovens cut on the bias. My fabric is called "Silky Solid Textured Stretch Crepe", 95% poly/5% spandex. Since it has stretch I plan to cut it on the straight grain like normal.
SewLibra:
After tracing the front piece I drew in the seam allowances. Note this pattern has armscye darts. I really like the fit of this pattern so I didn't bother rotating the dart but might do that next time.
SewLibra:
I found that my 1/4 C measuring cup is 2" in diameter. Perfect! I started near the V of the neckline with my first scallop at the pattern edge and made a small curve at the center front.
SewLibra:
The inspiration piece has 4 scallops on each side and so does my pattern draft. My last scallop sits right below the 5/8" shoulder seam.
SewLibra:
I'm using 3/4" on my gauge to make all the connecting curves between the scallops the same depth. The inspiration piece has small curves between the scallops instead of butting up against one another.
SewLibra:
I erased all the lines I didn't need and the front piece is done. I had a note to myself not to cut it from the paper yet, so if the mock up doesn't work I wouldn't have to tape paper underneath for the next try. Lol.
SewLibra:
Time to draft a facing. I made marks coming down from the center of each scallop 2 1/4" from the edge. 2 1/4" is half the width of the shoulder and comparable to facings in other patterns. This pattern has bands, not facings, and that won't work here.
SewLibra:
Connecting my marks with a French curve. I had to go back and true it a little more, but got it to look "normal" eventually. Ha!
SewLibra:
I went ahead and cut a short version of the front to test out the scallops before using my good fabric. This is some old chambray from my stash, nothing like what I'll be using, but it let me know how the scallops will look.
SewLibra:
Laying the facing pattern over my muslin I see the center does not meet the center of the fabric. Did I make a cutting error? Maybe, because cutting between the scallops was hard! I used a rotary cutter for the scallops, small scissors for in between.
SewLibra:
Here I have the altered facing over my front pattern piece and it fits exactly. Sure glad I noticed that. I don't want any puckers at the V of the neck!
SewLibra:
I sewed the darts and pinned the facing on the bodice right sides together. I sewed with a 1/4" seam allowance and it was difficult maneuvering all those curves. Admittedly, being a muslin I wasn't as careful as I could have been.
SewLibra:
I clipped all the inside curves and used a curve/point notion to push out the scallops, pressing as I went along. This fabric did not want to press well at all! After all was said and done I noticed I had the steam turned off. Hahaha!
SewLibra:
Front view of my neckline muslin. Not bad! I see the center has a wider space than the inspiration piece however my real fabric is much thinner and I think I will be able to cut it easier. I hope.
SewLibra:
Angle of neckline to the left. I actually don't mind the center being a little wider than the inspiration piece. There are no puckers and that's the main thing. The front facing fits well.
SewLibra:
Angle of neckline to the right. I don't see anything I really need to fix, so on to the back pattern piece and facing.
SewLibra:
One little alteration I wanted to make on front and back is to drop the armscye just a smidge. I still wear the other versions I made of this pattern but could use a little more room. I had it 1/4" then changed to 1/8". I can always trim more later.
SewLibra:
My 45mm rotary cutter gets all the use really, but for cutting the scallops on paper the 28mm worked great! Again I used small sharp scissors for in between though.
SewLibra:
Now I need the back piece to match the front shoulder and to draft a back facing. I lined up the front facing at the shoulder and marked it. I decided to lower the back neckline because it just seemed to flow together better that way.
SewLibra:
I wanted the back facing 2 1/4" wide, same as the front, but It's the scallops that are 2 1/4", not the end where it meets the back facing. I ended up with an odd shape but it all fits together. Might end up using the back band instead of the facing.
SewLibra:
Here are all my pattern pieces and I'm ready to cut the real fabric. If it doesn't work well on the straight grain I have enough to cut again on the bias. If it works the first time I'll have enough for a skirt!
SewLibra:
Again using my 28mm rotary cutter for the curves on the scallops and scissors for in between. I always wear my No-Cry glove on my left hand. Before making this again I'll transfer the scallop part to something sturdier, maybe a file folder.
SewLibra:
OMG this stretch crepe is a mess! By the time I was done sewing this top it looked like a hundred mischievous elves had used erasers all day long in there. Ha!
SewLibra:
I used black Pellon EK-130 tricot interfacing for the facings. I always keep a large supply of both black and white as I prefer the soft results even in wovens.
SewLibra:
Wow, not easy to line up the interfacing with the front facing. I pinned the heck out of it.
SewLibra:
There is a silk organza press cloth underneath to keep my board clean and one on top. I started steam pressing at the bottom and worked my way up, taking out pins as I went along.
SewLibra:
To avoid extra bulk at the shoulders I pressed the seam open and used the overcast feature rather than serging.
