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Kwik Sew 2821, night shirt. I could only find this pattern as a PDF, so I had to copy and tape it together. Not my favorite thing to do, but the reviews are good and I like the different neck and sleeve variations.
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My intention was to buy Art Gallery cotton/lycra knit like last time but the selection was poor. I decided to try Stoffabric Denmark Avalana Jersey Knit. 95% cotton/5% elastane. The quality seems comparable but time will tell if it holds up well.
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To keep the print straight and to center it on the fold, I pinned the center of every other owl on the fold. I gently patted the knit into shape and manipulated each line of print to the selvage and pinned there as well.
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The pins stayed in my fabric until the front was cut and then I repeated the process for the back piece. The sleeves are symmetrical, so I just laid one on top of the other and cut them exactly the same print-wise.
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When I ordered the fabrics, this pink looked the same color online as the owls. In real life it's hot pink...ugh. All the knits I used had super curly edges. I cut my bindings 1 3/4" wide, then folded lengthwise.
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I used Knit-N-Stable fusible stretchy tape to stabilize the shoulder seams, and this time also stabilized the V-neck. Last time I didn't do that and wished I had. Over the last two years my first one got a little saggy.
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Before going further, when you stitch your neckband together at the V edges make sure the raw edges are to the outside. It won't work the other way around.
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I used 3/8" SA throughout, so stitched 3/8" about 2 1/2" up each side of the V. Cut a slit to the stitching. I like to make the markings below as guide lines but that's up to you.
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Next position the band to the right side of the front piece like pictured and place a pin for pivoting in the center. You can sew from the right or wrong side (I've done both) so place the pin accordingly.
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I'm only going to sew those 2 1/2" where I had stitched to begin with. Place the left side (right side when worn), and pin.
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Sew from 2 1/2" down to the V, only to but not over the edge of where the band overlaps. Backstitch a couple of stitches. Don't go overboard in case you have to rip it out and start over. Yeah, it happens!
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Now pivot on that pin you placed and position the other band leg like the first. Pin in place for 2 1/2". (2 1/2" is approx.) OR take it out of the machine, pin in place, and continue to sew. Whichever is most comfortable for you.
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Before you sew the second leg, turn it over and it should look like this, with the V of the band centered with the V of the front piece.
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Lower your needle right to the edge, but not on, where the overlap is. You will probably need to remove the pivot pin now so you can get your presser foot down all the way. Sew your 2 1/2" and backstitch.
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There will be a small hole at the V and that's normal. I carefully closed it on the wrong side with the machine. This does not always work, but when you topstitch under the band later that will close it if you tuck the fabric edge under a bit.
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Time for a check on the right side! If it looks good you can go ahead and sew the rest of the band, stretching slightly to hold the neckline nice and close to the body.
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Sewing the rest of the band as described in the previous frame. Stretch as you sew. You can leave your bands longer than needed and cut off the extra even with the shoulder edge when done if you aren't sure how much you need.
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Once your bands are in you can serge the edges, one band leg at a time. This will give the most professional look and get rid of those curly edges.
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By serging one band leg at a time, the serging of the second leg will cross the first serging. You'll only have one area to pull back through, trim and Fray Check.
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Here is the outside, looking good with no pucker at the V. Not my first rodeo. Lol. However on the second night shirt I had to do it twice because the fabric on that band was super soft and not cooperating!
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I used an edge stitch foot for the topstitching, about 1/8" or so right under the band. This keeps the seam allowance down through multiple launderings and helps the neckline stay in shape.
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The front is now done. I have to say this owl print is stinkin' cute! I think it's from Stoffabric's childrens collection but I made it for myself anyway. Ha!
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Here's a view of the inside. Not that attractive with all the stitching, but on the other version I stitched the band overlap right on the edge and the serger covered it. I'll do that from now on.
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The back facing is sewn on and understitched. Now is the time to attach your label on the facing if you want it on the inside, or on the back if you want it on the outside. I found them irritating to my skin on the inside, so I put it on the back.
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Be sure to NOT sew the back facing into the shoulder seam. It will be flipped over later and cover part of the seam for a nice finish.
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I placed a pin at the quarter marks of both sleeve edges and sleeve bands and matched up the pins. There isn't much stretching involved on these, just a little bit.
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I'm using the free arm on my serger to trim off the sleeve bands. This is one of many reasons I love my Brother 1034D! Not many sergers have free arms.
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A ham is perfect for pressing the sleeve band seam allowances toward the sleeve in preparation for topstitching. Just because it's a knit does not mean you can skimp on pressing. I press every single seam before going to the next step no matter what.
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On the floral version I lined up the most dominate print (largest purple flowers) for the center front. I didn't want to end up with one on each boob. Haha!
