SewLibra:
Butterick Lisette 6169 Moto Jacket. I like the all the seaming and asymmetical zipper. It is described as semi-fitted. This pattern has good reviews, too!
SewLibra:
I'm using 100% poly suedecloth that looks like distressed leather. The lining is 100% rayon Bemberg. I machine washed and dried the lining but not the microsuede, though it can also be machine laundered. I tested on a swatch.
SewLibra:
I will need to shorten the riri zippers I have coming from Pacific Trimming, so I bought this tool from Zipper Shipper to make removing the metal teeth easier. It worked, but I kind of chewed up the zipper tape in the process. It takes practice!
SewLibra:
I had also ordered a longer than I need separating zip from Zipper Shipper but forgot to order the other two. I want to put zips in the sleeves. Also, this one is too dark brown.
SewLibra:
I've heard such positive things about Swiss-made riri zippers so I ordered the three I need. The color is perfect for my fabric, but these are expensive!
SewLibra:
Riri on the left, Zipper Shipper on the right. In person the brass is a little shinier on the Riri, and the pull a different shape. They both have pretty much the same "feel" to them when pulled up and down.
SewLibra:
Riri on left, Zipper Shipper on right. The stopper is larger on the riri, but they are exactly the same width of teeth and tape. Both seem to be quality zippers to me, but riri has more colors to choose from.
SewLibra:
The pattern calls for 1/4" shoulder pads. I don't normally go for shoulder pads, but these are thin and will provide structure.
SewLibra:
I used my Coverpro 900CPX to baste all nine seams of the jacket. Using the chain stitch makes it super easy to take out if you have to change seam widths. And I did!
SewLibra:
Using 5/8" SA made it too small with a 3" gap at the bust (usual for a C cup), so I changed to 3/8" SA. Since there are 2 seams in front but only 1 in back, it came out like this. No...this isn't going to work unless I change the neckline.
SewLibra:
The other problem with 3/8" seams is that it was too wide in the shoulders. I decided to sew 5/8" from the shoulder seam, tapering to 3/8" five inches down, both front and back. Problem solved!
SewLibra:
All princess seams sewn at 5/8" is obviously too small in the front, and being a lined jacket I could use more room in the back too. I figured if smaller seams didn't work enough, I would still have to do an FBA (full bust adjustment).
SewLibra:
I re-sewed all seams at 3/8" and no FBA needed! However, the shoulders are way too wide.
SewLibra:
A 5/8" shoulder and neck with a 3/8" bodice worked well, but I had drag lines under the shoulder after a sleeve was sewn in. A back shoulder wedge is usual for me.
SewLibra:
I unpicked the sleeve cap and (sloppily, Lol) sewed a 1/2" wedge on the back only, then transferred that to the other back piece. I sewed the sleeve cap back in.
SewLibra:
This is how my muslin/toile ended up. I had to keep in mind the faux leather and lining will be thicker, therefore taking up some room.
SewLibra:
This is how the way the jacket will be worn, with the wide lapel outward. I'm adding 1 1/2" inches to the lengthen/shorten lines so the hem will end up the same length as the muslin. It's a short jacket!
SewLibra:
I tried moving around with the jacket both closed and open. I think/hope it will be okay.
SewLibra:
Side view and two piece sleeve. My side seams are perpendicluar to the floor, which is good, and I like the two piece sleeve!
SewLibra:
These sleeves are narrow and I think plenty of people might want to take smaller seams. I did one sleeve in 3/8" seams but it was too baggy on me for the style. I went back to 5/8" seams. Later I realized I had not tried 1/2" seams, so I did that.
SewLibra:
The 1/2" SA on each sleeve seam felt right to me. The suedecloth/faux leather is a thin/medium weight, and the lining is super thin. Keeping fingers crossed!
SewLibra:
I thought there was too much sleeve cap ease on my musln. When I went to measure though, the numbers showed there was not much ease at all at the seamline. You can measure notch to notch on armscye and sleeve pieces to compare.
SewLibra:
The traditional way though, is to mark your seam allowance on the armscye and sleeve pieces, then measure on the seam line. Subtract the armscye measurement from the sleeve measurement to determine ease.
SewLibra:
Sooo....let's fast forward to where I actually sewed in my jacket sleeves and there was SO MUCH ease. Why? The pattern has you gather from dot to dot, not notch to notch. Keep that in mind if you measure for ease. I wish I had realized that early on!
SewLibra:
Other than lengthening the bodice pieces, I didn't want to cut into the pattern and sure didn't want to trace all those pieces. For the back shoulder gaping alteration I folded the edge over 1/2" and taped.
SewLibra:
I decided not to change the sleeve cap since it's a jacket and needs ease. I have the feeling I'm going to have trouble with setting in these sleeves with my unforgiving fabric through. All the pieces that needed modifications are done and shown.
SewLibra:
I was thrilled that I could easily use my rotary cutter on a double layer of this faux leather. It's much thinner than I expected it to be when I ordered it. No problems cutting at all!
SewLibra:
There are a lot of markings on this pattern. I had to re-mark two of the four fronts after interfacing. My advice is to wait until then because you may want to use the interfaced fronts for the zippers. That's what I did, to support the zippers.
SewLibra:
Ah yes, the slippery Bemberg lining. I took a chance by cutting on two layers by using Wonder Clips and painters tape to keep it in place. Probably should have cut single layer on tissue paper but so many pieces!
