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Itch To Stitch Crystal Cove Cami. This is a PDF only pattern and it includes sizes 00 to 20 with cup size choices.
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I couldn't resist this Telio Dali rayon poplin print called "Bird on Wire Ecru Black", but when it arrived and I saw it was see-through, I knew whatever I did with it would need to be lined.
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The three fabrics I used for this Crystal Cove Cami version are rayon poplin for the main fabric, viscose rayon challis for the binding and straps, and a lightweight poly satin for the lining. I happened to have the lining in my stash already.
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After staystitching around the necklines and armscyes, I sewed front to backs (there are 2 back pieces) on both the main fabric and the lining.
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Since I wanted to bind the hem I used my curve runner to determine how many inches I would need. I like to make extra "just in case" and I'm glad I did this time because I had enough left to bind along the upper back as well.
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I love the contiuous bias binding method! I made 114" with a 17" square of fabric, and only sewed two seams. It's amazing! Shown here, after pulling my 2" strips through a bias tape maker, I folded in half length wise and pressed.
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Aligning the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the fabric, I sewed along the right fold line. All the fabric and tape was on my lap while sewing.
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One thing about bias tape is that it wants to be in your way sometimes! When trimming the seam allowance before sewing the tape to the right side, I like to use a pattern weight to keep the tape out of the way. I move it section to section.
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Next, flip to the right side of the fabric, fold the tape over the edge, and using an edge stitch foot sew just inside the edge of the tape. No pins, it goes fast, and gives a nice looking finish.
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The binding is on and by pinning the back and trying it on, determine how long the straps should be. To bring the top under the armscye closer, simply make shorter straps. Pay attention to where your darts end up though, then sew on the straps.
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I was going to leave the lining with a serged edge, but felt it needed to be just a little shorter so there would be no chance of it showing underneath at the hem. I turned the edge and topstitched, which looks better anyway.
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Again, I'm singing the praises of the edge stitch foot! They go around corners like nobody's business and keep the stitches at the same distance all the way around.
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Time to pin the lining to the main fabric. I wanted the shiny side of the lining to show if the wind blows the main fabric, so that's what's shown here. Pin all the way across the top edge and make sure the straps are tucked down between the fabrics.
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I had forgotten to mark the 1/2" SA on the straps so I had to stop and mark as I came to each strap. This is my third version so sewing up to the straps, across them, and back down again went quickly. Plus, I could SEE the straps through the lining!
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As I sewed the lining to the main fabric, I had to keep pushing in the straps with a stiletto or reaching between the layers on the left and pulling them back. That part was challenging!
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After the lining was sewn, I pulled out all the straps to make sure they lined up properly and no puckers. I was pleased that they all looked fine!
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Yeah, I see my crooked blue line, but at least I didn't sew it (too) crooked. Lol. The point here is that after the straps are sewn and checked, I trimmed off the ends and used an overcast stitch to keep them from fraying.
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Pressing the trimmed and clipped SA to prepare for understitching was a beast! The straps are short and the fabric long, so it kept bunching up. I found doing just a few inches at a time and moving the fabric as I went worked.
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The same type of bunching happened while understitching, but not as bad as the pressing. Again, just a small section at a time and smoothing as you go.
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All done! I love the way this top feels. It's soft, light, and moves in a swishy kind of way. Ha!
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I started my "photo shoot" with my black backdrop, but it looked so weird I changed to my white backdrop. Halloween a little early?
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Close-up of front. I was going to take pics with white pants, but both are whiter than the top and made the top look dirty. In reality the fabric is slightly off-white and black.
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Showing the shiny side of my lining. This way it also keeps the main fabric from sticking and riding up.
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Back showing lining. Underlining would have been much easier, but I knew that would weigh down the main fabric and not drape well.
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Back view. I see some bagginess on the bottom hem on both sides. I think I might have done that with the final press, but not sure. Could be I stretched the binding going around the curves. Oh well, too late now.