SewLibra:
On the left is a RTW sweater from Macy's that I love to wear. I wanted to recreate it in the burgundy ribbed knit I bought at Joann Fabrics. I thought Jalie 3245 would be the best pattern to use, especially since I've made this pattern 3 times already!
SewLibra:
I started by raising the neckline on the front piece and front sleeve seam. I needed extra height to accommodate all those grommets. I had previously added 3/4", and here an extra 2 1/2" plus 1/2" neck band. 3 3/4" total.
SewLibra:
After removing the sleeve piece I had pinned to the front, I extended the seam line to match the new line on the sleeve.
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Next I added a 1 1/8" flap to both the sleeve, above, and the front piece at the front seam line. They will be interfaced and folded under at the seam line, and hold the grommets in tightly.
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Here are my new pieces held together with removable tape. Next I traced these pieces then realized I need to add a bit more to the edges of the flaps so when turned under they can be sewn into the seam.
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I folded under the flaps. You can see that if I left it as is, the flaps will not be caught in the seam line and will annoyingly move around inside the top!
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I traced the curve of the original pattern and taped the small pieces on each end of both flaps.
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Here are both pieces. I needed more room for the bust so I made a 3" slash and spread FBA. I dont' want the dart though, so I used a method from Jennifer Lauren's blog.
SewLibra:
Before going any further I folded the dart, placed the original front over my altered front, matched up the notches and compared seam length. If that had changed, the back would not match up with the front. All is well!
SewLibra:
Jennifer Lauren's blog shows how to remove the dart, usually unwanted on knits. After some cutting and taping the dart is closed, then you redraw the hem. It keeps the width and length created by the FBA but no dart nor easing in extra fabric. Genius!
SewLibra:
This is a close-up of cutting the fabric around those tricky flaps. Obviously a rotary cutter is not going to work in these areas. Small sharp scissors to the rescue!
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I used Pellon Knit-N-Stable fusible 1" tape on all the flaps. This tape is extremely stretchy but not bias. I made little clips in the curved areas so they would follow the shape.
SewLibra:
I serged the raw edges on all flaps since they will show on the inside. I can't stand raw edges anywhere, inside or out, but that's just my pickiness. Hehe.
SewLibra:
The seam allowance on this pattern is only 1/4". This is why I used the cutting line instead of the seam line when I drafted the flaps. I sewed the seams 1/8" from the tape edge. The other 1/8" doesn't make a difference in a knit.
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Here is the way the inside looked after sewing the arm seams, putting in the neckband, and sewing the side seams. All the flaps are enclosed as planned.
SewLibra:
I have one-piece eyelets smaller than the RTW sweater has and two-piece grommets that are larger. I decided I can't trust those eyelets to stay in, but I've had good luck with the grommets on two other garments...so grommets it is!
SewLibra:
I'm playing with placement here. Since my grommets are larger than the RTW has I decided to use fewer of them.
SewLibra:
Marking the grommet placement here. NOTE: If I make this again I will insert the grommets BEFORE I sew the side seams. That was dumb on my part. It was really difficult to get my pliers far up into the garment and still be able to squeeze them!
SewLibra:
I coverstitched the curved hem first and here I'm using the free arm on my Janome 900CPX for the sleeve hems. I have absolutely no trouble with this CS machine and love it!
SewLibra:
To avoid tunneling on knits I've found it's all in the settings. I used to use a stabilizer but still had issues until I became fearless with the settings! A stabilizer is seldom needed with the foot pressure and looper loosened.
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See how I have the dials set on the previous pic for this particular knit. Shown here I rarely need to change the differential feed and I prefer a 3.5" stitch length on everything.
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Front curved coverstitched hem. No stablizer and no tunneling due to coverstitch settings.
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Here is the inside of the curved hem and sleeve hems. I have a video on Youtube (under the name SewLibra) that shows a tip on how to keep the inside neat, no trimming.
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For the laces I cut two strips of 1 1/2" wide X 18" long of the fashion fabric, folded into thirds, and pressed. They are extra long but I wasn't sure how much I needed.
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I laced the grommets the same way the RTW sweater did and cut off the extra length. The ends were machine stitched to the flaps only and trimmed flush with the edge.
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Inside of both tops. I circled the bottoms to show the difference. My sleeves twist a little and I'm not sure if this is why. I might cut and release this area, and angle it like the RTW. If so, I'll use an overcast stitch to finish it. Not sure yet.
SewLibra:
Finished and I'm pleased! Next time instead of grommets I might use exposed zippers. I saw a female TV news anchor with one like that. It was cute!
