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Jalie 3667, Marie-Claude raglan pullovers. Will be using View C with a turtleneck, no hood.
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Whenever I want to do sketches and play with color blocking or stripes, I zoom and copy the pattern's line drawing. Since this fabric had 4-way stretch I could do anything I wanted!
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I ordered this 96% rayon/4% lycra with 75% four-way stretch and I don't know what I was thinking! It is extremely lightweight yet strangely heavy to the point of "growing" as I worked with it and as it hangs. The black is Telio rib knit from my stash.
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My first inclination was to go with vertical stripes which are slimming (hopefully) and not as predictable as horizontal stripes on a top. I loosely draped it on my dress form.
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I also draped the fabric with the stripes horizontally. I liked them both, but wanted to try it on the vertical. It really doesn't matter because due to poor fabric quality I consider this a muslin.
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Jalie sleeves are always extremely long for me. My measurement from neckline to just below wrist is 27". The pattern plus cuff is 30 1/4", so I needed to shorten the sleeve 3 1/4". That's a lot!
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I made my own shorten line and folded up the 3 1/4" difference. Now with the cuff pinned at 3/8" seam allowance, I end up with the 27" length I need.
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I trued the sleeve using a French curve. For this one I used 15 beginning on the bottom fold line and curving down to 7 where it meets the pattern paper.
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For the other side reverse the French curve and use the same numbers in the same places. Every alteration and person will most likely need different numbers. The point is to find the curve you need and use the same numbers on both sides.
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There isn't a marked line on the collar for stretch direction, only the fold line. Since I used rib knit for the collar and cuffs I marked the line so I could get the top over my head!
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To match the stripes I cut the front bodice first then matched up the stripes at the notch of the corresponding sleeve piece. All the stripes fell into place. I did this on front and back to all corresponding sleeve areas.
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I pinned every black stripe to the corresponding piece's black stripe and used a walking foot to keep the fabric from sliding out of place. I don't sew over pins and use a magnetic pin holder to toss them on as I go along.
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The instructions don't say, but on your collar and cuffs you should press the seam open before folding and sewing onto the garment. It only takes a minute and reduces bulk. Here I'm using a seam roll.
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I like to place a pin at center front, center back, and seamlines on both neckline and collar. It makes it easy to match up and results in a smooth even collar. (And cuffs.)
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This is my turtleneck inside the neckline pinned and ready to sew. This flimsy sweater knit needed a ton of pins. Never again will I buy this fabric! I do love the brown and black stripes with ribbing though..
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My Janome 900CPX coverstitch machine sailed through the hem. I did not interface because I didn't want to add more weight. The top was getting longer every minute!
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Here it is done, and I think it looks cute with the vertical stripes and contrasting collar and cuffs. I didn't shorten the bodice pieces because I wanted a tunic length. Before hemming though, I cut off 1 1/4" at the hem, following the curve.
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Even though the top matches my brown Burda pants, I think I like it better with black pants.
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Ha! I don't know what I was doing here but I thought it was funny. Anyway, you can see how baggy the upper arm is due to the raglan style in combo with a larger size and super stretchy fabric.