SewLibra:
Colette patterns and instructions come in a little book. The instructions and illustrations are excellent.
SewLibra:
There was only 1 1/2 yards left on the bolt at Joann Fabrics when I saw this last winter. I grabbed it up not knowing if it would be enough for this pattern. I had to get creative to fit all the pieces!
SewLibra:
The first thing I did was trace the back bodice and do my usual pivot and slide 3/4" swayback adjustment. But it changed the shoulder angle way too much I thought. I threw this away and started over.
SewLibra:
I knew I wanted to raise the back neckline because on my first Moneta it felt low. I raised it 1" at center back and curved to the shoulder with a French curve. When the dress was done, this felt so much better to me!
SewLibra:
This time I did the 3/4" swayback adjustment via a wedge from center back tapering to nothing at the side seams. It took care of the pooling at the lower back that I had on the first Moneta. This method I only use when there is a waist seam though.
SewLibra:
While cutting the fabric pieces I was concentrating to get that mediallion centered on the front. It didn't occur to me that there was a "mini" pattern on the back bodice. If I had known I could have moved the fabric 1/2" and had it centered. Argh!!!
SewLibra:
Here I have joined the dots and am cutting off the 1/8". This will help to keep the lining rolled to the inside of the garment. I also understitched to make sure!
SewLibra:
Okaaay...I should have used a Chaco Liner instead of a disappearing ink pen. The ink bled into the lining. But no worries, if that happens just blot a wet towel on it and it will disappear right away. Thoroughly dry before sewing.
SewLibra:
Sew shoulder seams on lining and fashion fabric. Place right sides together and pin lining neckline to fashion fabric neckline. Sew at 3/8" seam allowance.
SewLibra:
I'm using a pressing ham to press the curves of the neckline's seam allowances toward the lining to prepare for understitching.
SewLibra:
Understitch on the lining side with the seam allowance underneath. Sew close to, but not on the seam. This will keep the lining from rolling to the outside of the garment. An edge foot makes this easy!
SewLibra:
Turn the lining to the inside, press the neckline. Pin and baste around the entire outer edge of the garment, close to the edge to the right of where your permanent seam will be. The lining has now become an underlining and both are treated as one fabric.
SewLibra:
You won't have any trouble with the Colette Moneta sleeves because there is no ease to fiddle with. Just match up the center dot, notches and ends, and sew! This pattern comes with long or 3/4 sleeves. I cut the pattern to make short sleeves.
SewLibra:
After the sleeves are in and the side seams of the bodice sewn, hem the sleeves. I'm using the free arm of my Janome coverstitch machine for my 1" hems.
SewLibra:
The instructions say to sew on the pocket pieces from dot to dot, but that leaves a weird flap. I sew the entire pocket lenght narrower than the side seam will be to keep the pocket linings from rolling to the outside. I overcast the edge.
SewLibra:
When you serge around pockets STOP before you get to the curve. This is a common place to gouge with your serger blade, or miss and have unattractive loops hanging out.
SewLibra:
Gently pull the pocket toward you to make as straight a line as you can, then continue to serge around the pocket. At the end of the pocket, stop and repeat by straightening the SS.
SewLibra:
Only one line of shirring with elastic thread gathers the top of this skirt evenly and perfectly. I did this on my first Moneta too and didn't even try the suggested clear elastic because I don't like it. Lol. Seriously, this took less than a minute to d
SewLibra:
I know, I know, overkill on the pins. Well I want those gathers to stay even when I sew the skirt to the bodice!
SewLibra:
I sewed the skirt to the bodice with the gathers up so I could see what I was doing. I sewed just to the left of the shirring stitches. After sewing on the skirt I serged the seam allowance.
SewLibra:
No matter what the instructions say, I always sew the hem last. I coverstitched the hem and didn't have any problems.
SewLibra:
Done! That medallion-like print feature with the X in the middle was the only one on the whole yard and a half of fabric. So strange!
