SewLibra:
I've used this pattern 3 times plus used the waistband and yokes from it on 2 of my lounge pants, so I think I must like it! This time I'm using a very heavy ponte double knit with 25% stretch in the color loden.
SewLibra:
I put on the camo pants and noticed there were fabric folds under my butt toward the side seams.
SewLibra:
I had already raised the front rise 1/2" and the back rise 1" after I made the shorts, so all I needed to do was a wedge under the butt in back and under the crotch in front from the side seam to the inseam, right under the crotch.
SewLibra:
I didn't want the look of a fly, so I drew a line at center front as a cutting line. However first I wanted to sew it before cutting it. It could have been done first but I was not completely confident since I hadn't done it before!
SewLibra:
This pattern has 3/8" seam allowances. Conveniently, the Brother's J foot is 3/8" at the end of the clear window at the right side.
SewLibra:
After sewing the front pieces together, I cut the fly pieces off right on the chalk line I had made previously.
SewLibra:
Even though I left off the fly, I still topstitched everywhere else the pattern indicated. This fabric is thick and unruly, so I wanted to tame down all seam allowances that I could! I set up the Bernina for topstitching and the Brother for seams.
SewLibra:
On the front piece where the front yoke is attached, make sure you clip the curve. It's in the instructions, but just sayin' it must be done!
SewLibra:
The front yoke can be fiddly but it's easier if you pin the ends first, then up to the curve.
SewLibra:
For the curved area smooth the front yoke up and into the curve with your fingers using lots of pins! The other side will show the notches you cut are all spread out.
SewLibra:
Sew it with the notches on top, and make your line of sewing just to the left of your previous guide stitches to ensure you don't sew over the spaces between the notches. Take the pins out as you go.
SewLibra:
Press the seam allowances down. The left is the outside and the right is the inside. Ready for topstitching!
SewLibra:
The only place I couldn't topstitch was the outside seams. These little 3/8" seams would not lie flat even with plenty of steam and finger pressing. I didn't use my clapper because I didn't want the SA to show on the right side.
SewLibra:
When I made this pattern before, I didn't have a coverstitch machine so I zig zagged the elastic on with my sewing machine. Now I have a coverstitch machine and it was so easy!
SewLibra:
Inside and outside of waistband using the coverstitch. The black stitching will be the side next to the skin of course.
SewLibra:
The instructions don't say to do this, but press open the SA of the waistband before sewing it to the pants. Otherwise it will be too bulky there and either bog down under the needle or poke you in your sides!
SewLibra:
JoAnn's had only one spool of thread in the entire store that matched my fabric and it was a small Gutermann spool. I used it for topstitching and coverstitching only on both garments, so by the time I got to the hem this was all I had left!
SewLibra:
So, for lack of enough matching thread to coverstitch the hems, I used the blind hem stitch on my Brother. These are the settings that worked for this particular fabric. This fabric IS particular. Sheesh!
SewLibra:
The blind hem stitch is easy when you get used to it. It doesn't look "blind" on some fabrics though. The trick is to adjust the needle position so it barely swings into the fabric and catches as few threads as you can by with.
SewLibra:
Here's the blind hem after a good steam press, which helps bury the visible stitches into the fibers of the fabric. Not too bad, and it stretches much better than hand sewing. At least MY hand sewing. :(