SewLibra:
I had a vision for a shorts romper using the loden color fabric I ordered. I thought it would be accented well with black trim and gold accents. Here are the notions I had to work with, plus 2 grommets.
SewLibra:
I recently had purchased New Look 6468 and wanted to make the romper (shorts) without sleeves. I planned to use the zipper instead of buttons or grommets, in a semi-exposed manner.
SewLibra:
The romper muslin was ill-fitting and when the loden fabric arrived I realized it was too heavy for a summer romper anyway. I used the bodice as a beginning point for a top, raising the neckline 1" and extending the length 6 5/8".
SewLibra:
I did a 1" swayback adjustment and cut in the armscyes a little. Later I trimmed off more.
SewLibra:
A common adjustment for me is to lower the center front, which can ride up due to the bust. I didn't use the pattern's darts because they were too high and not needed for a stretch fabric. I folded them out when I made my knit muslin and it was fine.
SewLibra:
Next I took my self drafted tee and tank slopers to narrow the shoulders, compare side seams and armscyes.
SewLibra:
I changed the angle of the shoulders from the romper pattern to the slope my shoulders have. In retrospect, I wish I had cut the armcyes in at least an inch more.
SewLibra:
So here are the pieces I'm using. My newly drafted front, back, and the pocket pieces from the romper pattern. I ended up not using the pocket flap as the fabric was very thick, plus I decided to use black trim and grommets on the pockets.
SewLibra:
After sewing the shoulder seams, I sewed purchased 1/2" single fold bias tape on the wrong side of the fabric all the way around from bottom front hem to the other bottom front hem using a stitch-in-the-ditch foot.
SewLibra:
I pressed open the seams rather finishing them with my serger because I didn't want to add extra bulk. This fabric is way heavier than I wanted. It was advertised as top weight/bottom weight. Not true!
SewLibra:
After turning to the right side and pressing, I topstitched using an edge foot. The edge foot has a shorter guide than the stitch-in-the ditch foot and is easier to use on curves.
SewLibra:
The New Look 6468 pockets are 4 3/4" X 5 1/8", including the 7/8" fold at the top. After sewing the the 5/8" guide stitching, turn the fold to the inside and cut the bulk from the sides of the fold. Turn in the sides and bottom.
SewLibra:
Cut more bulk from the bottom corners. This fabric is spongey and did not ravel at all so I didn't have to finish any edges. I need to take all the bulk out I can, not add it in!
SewLibra:
And finally fold up the bottom and cut at an angle so fabric doesn't peek out of those corners when you sew the pocket on.
SewLibra:
Now that my edging is on and I have the pockets made, I'm playing around with the design before sewing in the zipper.
SewLibra:
Now that I know what I want, I finish up the pockets with the black trim and gold grommets. The bias tape has been folded in half and stitched on, then trimmed to 1/2" or so and folded underneath.
SewLibra:
When installing this 9" zipper I sewed right on top of the bias tape stitching. I thought it would look better since it does not go all the way to the hem. I am only exposing the gold teeth, not putting in an exposed zipper with the tape on the outside.
SewLibra:
I used an awl to try to tuck in those very stiff zipper tape ends before sewing over them. That was hard! I did the best I could but in the end I had to hand tack them in further.
SewLibra:
Since the zipper teeth take space in the seam, the rest of the center front is offset as well. I cut a panel of fabric so put underneath and marked where to sew the first side.
SewLibra:
After the first side is sewn, I marked the second side and topstitched over the black trim, same as before.
SewLibra:
This is what it looked like sewing the second side, again right on the stitching that was already on the bias tape. It turned out really nice!
SewLibra:
The zipper and front detail are to my liking, so here I'm trimming off the excess panel and trim.
SewLibra:
After basting the side seams for a try on, I pinned the pockets where I wanted them while wearing it. Then I took out the basting and sewed the pockets on. Those corners, even though I took bulk out, were still extremely thick!
SewLibra:
I noticed the gaping when I did the previous try on and figured the only thing I can do is take it up at the shoulders. That meant I had to cut through my continuous band of bias tape. It was quite depressing, to say the least, but I did it.
SewLibra:
This is after taking it up at the shoulders and the gaping is nearly gone. Honestly, this thick stiff fabric, even though it has 25% stretch, has a mind of its own! I would only buy this again for pants. Oh...and I did make pants from this!
SewLibra:
For the armhole treatments I measured the armscyes and cut self fabric facing strips 2" wide X 20" long. I sewed the ends together on each to make 2 circles.
SewLibra:
I sewed the facings on right sides together and pressed the seam allowance on the inside toward the facing for understitching, and the outside of the seam as flat as I could. Stubborn fabric does not want to take a press!
