SewLibra:
I didn't realize this pattern had a high-low hem. Meh. But by lining up the waist markings on the front and back, it's only 3/4" longer and I will be doing an FBA which lengthens the front.
SewLibra:
Here is my slash and spread method FBA. I increased by 2.5". This pattern has no darts, and if you're bigger than a B cup you may or may not need this adjustment. Check the finished measurements on the back of the envelope.
SewLibra:
This is the difference between the original front and my FBA. I want to keep the extra length, but not the extra hem width.
SewLibra:
To return to the original hem width, I lined up the center front and traced the hem. Then I drew a side seam up to just below the new dart.
SewLibra:
Since the slash and spread FBA adds length, now the back appears to be only 1/8" longer than the front. Note that I say "appears", because in the end the high-low hem had a 2" difference. I still can't figure that out! ????
SewLibra:
I relocated the dart about three times before deciding where I wanted it. This time I tried angling it upward toward the apex. I think I like straight across better. Oh well.
SewLibra:
After I was done with the FBA, dart, and new hemline, I traced a nice new front pattern piece on pattern tracing paper from Nancy's Notions. I like to write all the modifications I did on the tissue.
SewLibra:
I cut out the pieces single layer, one side at a time and carefully pinned at the fold line. The intention was to match the side seams. But when I went to cut the back, the area I needed had missed the dye and would have looked horrible!
SewLibra:
The instructions say to cut the facings on the bias. That takes a lot of fabric, so if you can't do it then cut on the stretchiest direction of your fabric.
SewLibra:
The cut-out on the pattern is a square, but I wanted a triangle. First trace around the side back piece. A French curve is handy for nice clean curves.
SewLibra:
Match the notches and armhole edge of yoke to the side back. Draw a straight line from the left corner of the side back to the lower corner of the yoke at fold line. Fyi, I transferred those circles but didn't them for the triangle. Habit!
SewLibra:
To prevent gaping on the edges of the cut-out, I used Design Plus fusible stay tape right at the pressed fold of the 5/8" seam line. Fold the seam allowance back up and tuck in the raw edge to meet the fold.
SewLibra:
Here is the inside of the top, showing the hems of the cut-out. I serged my seams after sewing them on the machine to prevent fraying and to look nice.
SewLibra:
I also used Design Plus fusible stay tape for the shoulder seams. Mark the 5/8" seam allowance first.
SewLibra:
Place the tape over the center of the seam line and fuse. Stitch as usual at 5/8" from the raw edge, stitching through all layers.
SewLibra:
Edge finish your shoulder seams (I serged), then press toward the back. This will hide the tape.
SewLibra:
Now topstitch your shoulder seams making sure you are sewing through the seam allowance to keep it in place. An edge foot or stitch-in-the-ditch foot makes easy work of this!
SewLibra:
For pressing under the neck binding, I like to pin straight into the ironing board pad, making sure the seamline is slightly to the inside. Press the pinned area, then on to the next section. Let dry before topstitching.
SewLibra:
Pinning into the ironing board pad again to keep the facings perfectly even at the raw edges. A thick pad is a must for me. I made 6 layers of batting for mine!
SewLibra:
A sleeve board or tailors ham are indispensible for small areas. Here I am pressing under the armscye facings. The sleeve board is an all metal Laurastar. I love it and use it for almost every garment I sew.
SewLibra:
Some sewists swear by basting a curved hem, pulling the thread to gather at the curves, sew and take out the basting. I have always had good luck using a gauge, pin into the ironing board, and using the iron to steam in the curves.
SewLibra:
Rayon challis has such a lovely drape. It felt just like the four rayon batiks I sewed last summer. I must be on a real rayon kick. It frays and must be handled gently while sewing, but worth it!
