SewLibra:
To take volume from the hood, I folded out .75 in. from the lower hood, piece J, and 1.5 in. from the hood front, piece K. You need to take out twice the amount from the band as you did on the hood to fit together properly. It fits much better now!
SewLibra:
You'll need a tailors ham for all the curves. All seams are topstitched and keeps the seams down in the direction they are pressed.
SewLibra:
On the left is the Brother zipper foot and on the right is a generic foot that fits. I prefer the generic because I can get closer to the teeth on bulky outerwear zippers.
SewLibra:
Prepare for the zipper by stabilizing the front edges with strips of stretch interfacing or tape if your fabric has stretch, or woven if your fabric does not have stretch. Then serge or overcast the raw edge (not shown, I forgot to take the pic!)
SewLibra:
I like to separate the zipper and sew each side from the hem to the neckline. This means you need to roll up the garment for the right side because the garment will be to the right and will need to be pushed through the machine harp.
SewLibra:
For the side with the tab (usually on the right), pull the tab down a few inches, sew down to it, lift the presser foot and slip the tab behind, where you have already sewn.
SewLibra:
Sewing the right zipper tape, starting at the hem. See the rolled up jacket to the right? Sewing from hem to neckline helps keep your bottom band matching each other.
SewLibra:
The sticky dots show all the places you need to match seams and/or edges. This is Jalie 2795.
SewLibra:
After sewing in the right side zipper, put the zipper back together and zip it all the way up. Simply bend the zipper over on the left side of the garment and mark all your seam lines on the unsewn side of the zip.
SewLibra:
Now separate the zipper and pin on the left side using pins vertically, matching your marks to your seam lines.
SewLibra:
To be sure it lines up correctly, zip it up again and check. If all is well, separate the zipper, place your pins horizontally and sew in the remaining side starting with the hem.
SewLibra:
Sewing the left zipper tape, again from hem to neckline. This time the garment is on the left which makes it easier! I go slowly so it doesn't shift position over the seams.
SewLibra:
The tie was made from black llnen in my stash. I cut the strip 1.5 in. wide, 48 in. long, pulled it through a 25mm bias tape maker, then folded in half lengthwise. Be sure to press well as you go along.
SewLibra:
If you have a Brother/Babylock machine, both the cording foot or stitch guide foot keep the tie flat and steady for stitching.
SewLibra:
To stabilize the grommets on the hood front (K), I used 2 layers of woven, NOT stretch, interfacing at the outer corners next to the fold on the wrong side of the fabric.
SewLibra:
I decided on .75 in. from the fold and 1 in. from the raw edge. The SA is .25 in., so this places the grommet equally distant from the edges when done.
SewLibra:
After I installed both grommets, I placed the tie along the fold and through the grommets and continued sewing. Just watch that you don't sew the tie into anything! You can feed the tie in through the holes later but I didn't want to stretch my rib knit
SewLibra:
The only part I had to hand sew was the inner collar to the zipper tapes and across the shoulder. The fleece was so thick I had trouble getting the needle through the seams. I took awhile!
SewLibra:
Close up of finished hood, grommets, tie and zipper stops. The zipper has to be cut for the larger sizes, so you need to install metal stops.
