SewLibra:
First I used my princess seam sloper to compare for sizing, but it's for a knit and this is a woven fabric.
SewLibra:
I went with size 14 (my usual pattern size) and traced the lines on the pattern. This pattern can't be cut and has to be traced on your own paper. Drat!
SewLibra:
I could see already the sleeve cap had way too much ease by comparing to another sleeve I had altered in the past.
SewLibra:
I measured the armscye 1/2 in. in from the edge since this pattern calls for 1/2 in. seam allowance. It was 19 1/2".
SewLibra:
I measured the sleeve the same way as the armscye. It was 21 1/4". This flexiible ruler is pretty cool!
SewLibra:
There was 1 3/4" ease, and I left 1" ease since this is a woven. I folded out the excess above the notches to keep them intact.
SewLibra:
Oh yeah, this is bad news. I went ahead with the muslin though, using the modified sleeve cap. The gold line represents my arm without ease and this is too low. You do need more for a sleeved garment than you do for a sleeveless one though.
SewLibra:
The altered sleeves went in perfectly, but as you can see the muslin is too big everywhere. I resewed all the seams with a 5/8" SA instead of the 1/2" and that seemed fine.
SewLibra:
Since I did 5/8" SA instead of 1/2", I had to again change the sleeve to fit the armscye. 1/8 (shoulder seam) + 1/8 (side seam) + 1/2 (armscye raised)= 3/4". I had to take off 3/8" from each sleeve end (3/8 + 3/8 = 6/8= 3/4"). Notches now match up.
SewLibra:
The instructions say if you want a curved hem, use the template and cut after sewing the shirt, but before you hem it. I opted to do it before cutting the fabric. But if I want a straight hem next time I'll need to add that back on.
SewLibra:
Here I'm using a clear ruler to make sure my grainline is straight on the fabric before cutting.
SewLibra:
I really like this Dritz silk organza press cloth. It's perfect for pressing interfacing because you can see right through it.
SewLibra:
I like the way this pattern does the facings. The ends are sewn on the shoulder seams and there is nothing to flop around the back of the neck.
SewLibra:
The facing seam allowances are pressed under and will be hand sewed to the shoulder seams on the inside. Next is to machine sew along the neck opening.
SewLibra:
The facing is sewn right side to right side, then folded to the inside. Then press up the hem. Looks smooth, right?
SewLibra:
BUT, after sewing the hem and topstitching around the whole shirt, it puckered at the facing bottom. I had to rip it all out!
SewLibra:
Tip: Use a pin adjacent to your bottom buttonhole mark to help line it up. It's so hard to see in that little hole! I used painters tape for a guide, too.
SewLibra:
Tip: Use a pin adjacent to your button mark to help line it up. My button centers were 3/4" from the edge, and I used this handy little measuring device to make sure.
SewLibra:
Inside collar and facings done. It looks and feels much better than the facings that extend over the back of the neck. I serged all the inside seams close to my machine stitching.
