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The newer second pad under the cover had a little hood on the narrow end to keep it from slipping. Good idea!
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Using twin size Quilters Dream Cotton batting, folded twice, I was able to get 4 layers and simply traced around my upside down ironing board. I made marks 2 in. away from the edge of the board all around.
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By turning the remnant the other way around I was able to get 2 more layers for a total of 6.
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From the canvas I bought for the reversible cover, I made a 6 in. deep hood at the front and back of the pad to keep it from slipping on the board. Not really necessary, but experimenting here.
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My Brother 1034D serger was a champ on all 8 layers. I serged around the entire pad catching in the front and back hoods.
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The hoods sagged underneath so I decided to sew a strip of elastic on the underside edges. This worked out great! Again, the hoods aren't a necessity but good to have to keep the pad from slipping over time.
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Rather than pinning the elastic on the hoods, I used disappearing ink for marking half and quarters on the fabric and elastic. Then just stretched to match up the marks. Easy!
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Here are the hoods after the elastic was sewn. It fixed the sagging but next time I might use thinner fabric, a cotton, and stretch it tight while sewing to avoid the elastic.
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Finished pad, right side. I like how it goes over the edges, which is why I cut it 2 in. larger than the board.
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Using 2 layers of 9 oz. organic natural cotton duck, aka canvas, I made marks 4 in. around the perimeter and joined them for a cutting line.
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Pin the 2 cover pieces together but leave 6" at the large end open. You'll need that opening to insert elastic all around.
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Backstitch at the beginning of the opening and sew a 1/2 in. seam all aound the cover, backstitching at the other end of the opening. A small seam here will give more room in the elastic casing.
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Pull the seam out as far as you can, manipulating the fabric with your fingers, and press the edges. This is not easy on canvas!
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Make your casing by stitching on the right side of the cover, giving enough room for your elastic. I prefer 1/2 in. elastic but what I had enough of was 1/4 in. I made a 3/4 in. casing which was still pretty tight on this thick fabric.
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This is the tool I use for feeding elastic through a casing, though a safety pin works too. Since I didn't have enough 1/2 in., I used two strands of 1/4 in. stitched together at the end.
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By the time I got up one side and to the narrow end, I knew I would not be able to go on. I took out some stitching, pulled the elastic through, pinned it so it wouldn't get lost and cut it. I started anew for the other side.
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Once the elastic is all through the casing, continue your casing line across the opening(s). Make sure to pin the loose elastic ends so they don't retract into the casing.
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Place the cover under the board and pull the elastic until the cover is as tight as you can get it.
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I had two openings to deal with due to that heavy double canvas. This is what the narrow end looked like after pulling the elastic.
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After the cover has been fitted, sew your elastics together with multiple zig zag stitches. I had to do mine wonky because of using 2 strands, so I had 4 to deal with on each end. It's all hidden in the end though.
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Tuck the exposed elastic inside the casing. My raw ends are starting to fray so I'm happy to be almost done!
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Sew up the opening right at the very edge of the fold, not sewing through the elastic. You have to pull it straight little by little as you sew. Gives a nice neat finish!
