SewLibra:
Since the Chi-Town is a shorts pattern, I'm using the legs from Closet Case Sasha pants. I like the slim cut. I'm also using the curved waistband from this pattern. There is a separate Flickr album from when I made this pattern.
SewLibra:
I used the one needle chain stitch on my coverstitch machine for my muslin. The stitches hold securely for try-ons but it's super fast to remove. Just pick out four stitches at the end and the whole seam can be ripped off in seconds!
SewLibra:
This is my muslin for the Closet Case Sasha. I took up the length, narrowed the right leg and pinned out the under seat wedge. Using a sheet for a muslin is not really the right fabric to use for these pants though...no stretch.
SewLibra:
I began my alterations by narrowing the legs, from size 14 at the waist and hip to 12 in the legs. I started at the tip of the front crotch curve and about the same place on the hip side. I did this on both front and back.
SewLibra:
For the wedge under the seat to remove drag lines and wrinkles, I made a horizontal line 1 1/2" below the crotch curve.
SewLibra:
I cut on the line from the side seam toward the inseam but left it intact at the inseam for a pivot point. On the side seam I pulled up the paper one inch and taped across.
SewLibra:
Lengthening the back rise is done the same way, via a wedge. Place paper under your pattern to add the amount of rise you want. I did only 1/2" on these lower rise pants. This method does not change the length of the side seams, so they will match up.
SewLibra:
I compared the Jalie Vanessa pant, which is made for wovens, with the Sasha pant. The front crotch curve of the Sasha is higher than the Vanessa. Since it felt fine on my muslin, I'm leaving it as is and hope I don't regret it!
SewLibra:
Here the Sasha pattern is over the Vanessa pattern and I'm pleased that the size 12 leg is very close. I don't want these pants too snug, as I want them to serve as dress pants.
SewLibra:
Before lengthening the back rise, the Sasha and Vanessa are almost identical! I kept in mind that the waistbands are different types and heights though. This gives me hope for a good fit.
SewLibra:
Wow, this is ugly, right?! This is the back piece with these alterations: Shortened 1 1/2", wedge under butt of 1", back rise lengthened 1/2" and side seam trued from making the large 1" wedge.
SewLibra:
Front piece with the same alterations except for the rise. If you make a wedge under the seat, you must modify the front too so the seams match up. This can be done anywhere on the front, but I had bagginess in the upper leg.
SewLibra:
These are the pocket lining pieces. I used a contrast navy polka dot cotton. I'm concerned that the pattern calls for cotton for this, yet the main fabric has to have 20% stretch.
SewLibra:
These are the interfacing pieces for the Sasha trousers. I used black stretch tricot interfacing. I love it because it gives soft support but stretches and is comfy.
SewLibra:
Here are the details of the tricot interfacing. Pellon EK-130 Easy-Knit. I keep white and black in my stash.
SewLibra:
Make sure you have plenty of interfacing because the curved waistband takes a lot and you need to cut two. The smaller pieces can be cut from what's left in between the waist band pieces.
SewLibra:
I used the continuous bias tape method. Only two seams! This is is the first seam. There are many tutorials and Youtubes online for this method. I used an 18" square with selvages cut and edges trued.
SewLibra:
After pressing the first seam, mark your lines. I made mine 1 1/2" wide and my lines fit perfectly all the way up.
SewLibra:
This is the tricky part, the second seam. Follow a tutorial and this is what it should look like at this point, a tube.
SewLibra:
On the second seam, since it's now a tube, I used a seam roll to press open the 1/4" seam allowance.
SewLibra:
Using scissors (no rotary cutter for this!) start cutting at the offset portion of the tube.
SewLibra:
Here my bias tape is made and I used my gadget to make binding. That 18" square made 5 1/2 YARDS of binding. Whoa...I don't need nearly that much!
SewLibra:
To mark the top of welt pocket line, I started by folding the dart in the pattern and pinning it directly on top of the back piece.
SewLibra:
I carefully lifted up the pattern and marked with a pin the beginning and ending of the line.
SewLibra:
I used a straight edge and my Clover Chaco Liner to draw the line. I couldn't get my white pencil to mark on this stretch gabardine, except for a dot now and then. The problem with loose chalk like this, is that it rubs off easily with handling.
SewLibra:
Here I was able to make dots show up enough from my pencil to mark the welt pockets. I made dots on each end and drew horizontal lines between dots.
SewLibra:
When I was at the point of making the welts, to be sure they were straight I pinned them on and used a large ruler. I have one hip a little higher than the other, but I always wear my tops out so I just wanted even pockets.
