SewLibra: First step was to trace off my self drafted knit pants sloper since I'm going to narrow the waist. I want to preserve the original which is for a traditional elastic waist.
SewLibra: I lined up the crotch and placed the Jalie pieces on top to determine how much to increase the back rise. The Jalie was too low on me.
SewLibra: I didn't use the fly, so I folded it back. I kept the front crotch curve from my sloper for more comfort. It's close though!
SewLibra: I traced around the Jalie onto my pattern and cut, leaving the crotch curves and wider legs of my self drafted pattern.
SewLibra: I used my newly drafted pants (on freezer paper) and the original Jalie yoke and waist pieces for cutting the fabrics. Then just sewed them up using the Jalie instructions!
SewLibra: Cutting out the self drafted pant legs.
SewLibra: I decided to add my own side pockets in a thin black knit from my stash. The fashion fabric would have been too bulky.
SewLibra: I serged the pockets on and all the way down the pant leg on all four pieces.
SewLibra: I don't serge around the pockets anymore because I don't get a good result in the corners. The outer seams will be pressed open.
SewLibra: This fabric is impossible to mark! I cut a sticky dot in half for my pivot points.
SewLibra: Coming up to my pivot point. Just raise the presser foot and take the sticky dot off when you get there.
SewLibra: Using an overcast foot and stitch to go around the pocket. I have trouble with the serging at the corners going down to the side seam, so I do this now.
SewLibra: Pin each pocket top to the front waist and baste or sew across the top to secure. The waistband will encase this.
SewLibra: Outer seams pressed open, each side has been serged.
SewLibra: Zig zagging both sides of the elastic on each band piece.
SewLibra: Using the overcast foot to secure the seams of the waistband. Serging would have caused too much bulk.
SewLibra: Ziz zagging the waistband raw edges before serging it onto the pants.
SewLibra: Serging the waistband onto the pants. Watch out for the pins and take them out before you get to them.
SewLibra: Not in the instructions, but I pressed down the waistband and topstitched to keep the seam allowance down.
SewLibra: Using a stitch in the ditch foot for topstitching the bottom of the waistband.
SewLibra: Hem prep is so fast and easy on a sleeve board. First press under the hem where you want to wear it.
SewLibra: Use a ruler and chalk to rotate and mark the part you want to cut off, if any. I had to cut off an inch.
SewLibra: Rotate and cut the hem while it's still on the sleeve board.
SewLibra: Serging the hem edge. I love that my serger has a free arm!
SewLibra: Using the blind stitch foot on the pant hems.
SewLibra: Darn pockets linings show! I wanted to keep the pockets so thought of making a flap with button.
SewLibra: I measured the pocket opening and made a pattern for the pocket flap and interfacing.
SewLibra: Sewing step 1 of single fold bias tape.
SewLibra: Step 2 - clip the curve.
SewLibra: Step 3 - Topstitch the bias tape, catching in the tape on the wrong side.