SewLibra:
Front slant pockets. Pattern made by ripping apart RTW and figuring it out. This muslin is made from linen...wrinkly, horrible linen I had in my stash.
SewLibra:
I used my preferred front fly zip method. Had to trim the inside pocket lining since the fly was done differently than the factory. I have been trying to use up pre-made waistband interfacing on everything I can. I have a ton of it.
SewLibra:
For welt pockets in back, sew darts first. I am making two, but for each pocket cut 1 piece fusible interfacing 7" x 2" for a 5" opening. Pink the edges.
SewLibra:
From your fashion fabric (FF) cut strips for welts and one piece 7" x 3 1/2". Double welts cut two, 7" x 1" and single welt cut one, 7" x 2". Cut interfacing for welts, fuse, fold lengthwise and press.
SewLibra:
On interfacing, mark a 5" line in the center for a cutting line. Mark a line 1/4" away on each side of the cutting line to make stitching lines. On wrong side of garment, center below end of dart. Fuse with your iron.
SewLibra:
Pin the 7" x 3 1/2 " FF to the right side, centering over the interfacing that is on the wrong side. You should pin from the other side though since you will be sewing that side - sorry!
SewLibra:
Turn the piece of FF through the slit to the wrong side of the fabic where the interfacing is.
SewLibra:
Square up the slit on the right side. Be careful not to pull or distort out of shape. Press.
SewLibra:
Right side up, place the welt underneath and line up the top of the welt with the top of the slit. If you are using a double welt, baste the two welt pieces together at the center and line it up in the middle of the opening.
SewLibra:
Topstitch around all 4 sides, pivoting at corners. Be careful not to catch top of single welt in stitching so that the pocket can open.
SewLibra:
Press down top flap. This is going to act as a facing and will show when the pocket opens. Otherwise, you will have lining showing when the pocket is open.
SewLibra:
Each pocket has two lining pieces that will form the pocket. Cut them 6 3/4" x 8 1/4". Line up the top of one lining to the waistband. Pin to the top flap.
SewLibra:
It should look like this. Note where the serged edge is and this will be your stitching line.
SewLibra:
Pin the other lining piece to the seam allowance of the welt itself. From the right side open up your welt to make sure there are no raw edges of your lining. If so, you have not pinned correctly.
SewLibra:
Sew your lining pieces as pinned and press them both downward. You will see one looks much longer than the other. That's right!
SewLibra:
This is what it looks like when you open up your linings. Put top lining down for next step.
SewLibra:
With chalk, mark a line about 7 1/2" down from the waistline. You can make it squared or curved, shorter or longer, however you want the inside pockets to look. Cut both lining pieces along your chalk line.
SewLibra:
Trim welt flaps to edge of pocket. Sew around the 3 pocket edges, excluding the waist edge, pivoting at corners if your pockets are squared. In your stitching, catch in the welt flaps too.
SewLibra:
Finish the pocket lining by serging. Tip: Serge from the right side of the garment by folding in the FF so you don't catch it in the serger.
