SewLibra:
I had enough to cut the two front bands on the straight grain, but it needs to curve around the neck and shoulders and I wanted the print to be in the right position. I ended up cutting one on some lightweight cotton lawn so they would be on the bias.
SewLibra:
I fused Pellon EK-130 lightweight tricot interfacing to my rayon challis front band piece. The instructions don't mention interfacing but my rayon is floppy and needs it, even with the cotton lawn which will be one of the layers.
SewLibra:
Not surprisingly, my bias cut rayon band grew 1 1/4". After fusing the interfacing I placed the pattern over the piece and trimmed the excess off.
SewLibra:
To avoid having to mark the centers on my band pieces, I folded them in half lengthwise and pressed a crease at the fold.
SewLibra:
Then I just followed the crease in each band piece to split them in half. You don't have to do any of this if you had enough fabric to cut both band pieces from your fashion fabric!
SewLibra:
I laid out my 4 band pieces so that the print will be upright in the finished garment. I made a little sample to be sure of my placement. The black is the part that will be sewn to the bodice, and when folded over the print should show on the outside.
SewLibra:
Next I sewed each black piece to each fashion fabric piece just as I had it laid out using a 1/4" seam allowance. Pressed and understitched so the black won't peek out.
SewLibra:
Here I have sewn a 5/8" seam allowance connecting the two band pieces, and pressed the seam open. This pattern has 5/8" seam allowances throughout.
SewLibra:
Now with my one long band I folded it lengthwise on the right side and pressed so that 1/4" of my main fabric is showing. The understitching is right below that. Both these techniques should help keep the black fabric from rolling to the outside.
SewLibra:
Rather than wait until the band is sewn to the bodice to press in the 5/8", I'm doing it at this stage because it's easier. I will not be hand sewing it there as instructed, but plan to machine stitch instead.
SewLibra:
Since I understitched, rolled the main fabric to the outside a bit and pressed, I have more than 5/8" seam allowance to sew onto the bodice. To get it right I marked my ruler at 5/8" and trimmed off the excess.
SewLibra:
I sewed the side backs to the back and used the burrito method for the yoke. No hand sewing and it gives a clean finish inside. I like the YouTube "How to Sew a Shirt Yoke" by Russell Conte of Sewing Arts Center. It's very clear the way he shows it.
SewLibra:
My yoke is done and it was fast. Absolutely the only way I've sewn shirt yokes for years now. There is the burrito method for facings and linings too!
SewLibra:
Next I sewed the sleeves in flat rather than set in (in the round) like the instructions have you do. The instructions for this pattern are antiquated and make things much harder than necessary. I did zero hand sewing on this jacket.
SewLibra:
Time for the band. I'm sewing a 5/8" seam allowance on the black side of my "patched together" band so in the end the print will be shown on the front.
SewLibra:
After checking for any tucks (there weren't any) I serged off the excess seam allowance. I have the print side up so I can see the stitching better. All inside seams were serged.
SewLibra:
The band was turned to the inside and pinned over my serged stitches, which acted as a guide. I left the pins off the end of each band for now since they will need to be turned to the outside and sewn first.
SewLibra:
For the inside to look nice and avoid a lumpy hem, the band ends are turned to the right side of the jacket. I marked the hem allowance 1 1/4" for the hem amount and sewed on the lines.
SewLibra:
To get a better point on the corners, clip at a diagonal close to, but not through, the stitching at the corner.
SewLibra:
I have a point turner, but prefer to thread a needle, tie a knot 5" up, stick the needle through the point from the inside and pull the point out as far as you can. Clip the thread then reach inside to pull out the thread tail. Works like a charm!
SewLibra:
After a good press I'm using an edge stitch foot to sew the band edge, covering the serged stitches as shown previously when I had it pinned. This foot keeps your stitches nice and even throughout.
SewLibra:
Before you get to the band ends, fold up the hem first just in those areas. This will save hand sewing there later. My hem allowance is 1 1/4" and my finished hem is 1". I sewed all the way to the garment edge.
SewLibra:
I serged the side seams and tried it on. The front was shorter than the back. Took off 1 1/4" in center back tapering into the fronts. Should have done an FBA for length even though I didn't need it for width. It's not designed to close in front.
SewLibra:
Now that my jacket looks even front to back I pressed up a 1" hem and used my edge stitch foot to sew it. The black thread doesn't show much on this print but if you have a solid you might want to hand sew.
SewLibra:
Same hem treatment for the sleeves. I used my sleeve board to press up 1 1/4" then go around a second time to press 1". Sleeve boards are the best ever for sleeve and pants hems!
