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Pic of finished mask. It's a closer fit under the nose and mouth than the pleated type. Not sure which I prefer at this point but I know how to do both now!
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The Olson mask already had the filter pocket. I changed from ties to elastic ear loops and added a nose wire with pipe cleaners. No fogged glasses for me. It's hard enough to wear these darn things as it is!
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Other than 100% tightly woven cotton for the main fabric and lining, you need 1/4" or 3/16" elastic for the ear loops, 6" pipe cleaners for the nose/upper cheek wire, and optional coffee filters to place in the filter pocket for extra protection.
SewLibra:
Mantello Soft Pipe Cleaners, 6', 100% cotton extra absorbent pipe cleaners from Amazon. These are perfect for mask nose wires. You have to straighten them when the masks come out of the dryer, as you would any wire, and remold to your face.
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I used the Olson face mask pattern but found that both the adult and children's were way too wide, even on my husband. I folded out 1 1/2" on the face and cheek pieces.
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After folding out the excess I used a French curve to blend into the end, as I wanted the ends the original size. You can also just hack off the excess and taper down to the original end. I did that on the Olson child's pattern as it was also too wide.
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The mouth piece is unchanged in this pic, however I ended up trimming the top and bottom to help it roll to the inside of the mask. After tracing the face and cheek I made sure they fit together exactly.
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I'm using different printed cottons so to get the print in the correct orientation I marked grainlines in both directions. Some prints go one way and others are another way!
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For comparison on sizing, on the left are the modified pieces and on the right are the original pieces.
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Use pliers to firmly bend the tip of each end of a 6" pipe cleaner. Make it tight! This is to keep it from poking through after laundering and possibly making a hole or hurting someone. I do this in one sitting for all wires needed.
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I put 20 yds of elastic in a small plastic container with the lid loose on one side. I cut the size needed and used a black Sharpie pen on each end for visibility. That's my guide to cut all the elastic pieces at one time.
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Cut out as many masks as you plan to make then press all the needed folds at once, saving time. All folds are pressed to the WRONG side. Press under 1/2" on the short straight side of the FACE piece.
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Press under 1/4" on the straight short side of the MOUTH pieces. TIP: Keeping right sides together measure and press one piece. Turn them over and press down the second side to match the first one. No measuring needed on the second side.
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Press under 1/2" on the straight short side of the CHEEK and 1/4" on the long straight side. Again, keep the pieces together and flip over to press the other cheek piece.
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Here I have all the pieces for several masks with the folds pressed, ready for chain piecing.
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This is optional, or can be done later after stitching the 1/4" fold on the cheek pieces, but I like to clip off the tips even with the raw edge. It makes it easier to line up later on.
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I use my serger and coverstitch cone thread on a thread stand for masks so I don't use up all my regular spools of fashion colors. I just choose the closest color I have.
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Sew long MOUTH curve seam right sides together using a 1/4" SA. Backstitch at both ends. Stitch down the 1/4" folds you pressed, no need to backstitch those, as a seam will cross them later.
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Stitch down 1/4" pressed folds on CHEEK pieces. No need to backstitch. DO NOT STITCH DOWN ANY 1/2" FOLDS ON CHEEK OR FACE PIECES. When you chain piece you simply feed the next piece under the presser foot once the previous piece is sewn.
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Stitch the long curved edge of the FACE pieces, right sides together using 1/4" seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends. DO NOT STITCH DOWN THE 1/2" FOLD.
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Right sides together insert MOUTH into FACE piece matching seams at top and bottom. This is why you backstitch these pieces as there will be some stress on the seams as you manipulate them.
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TIP: If you offset the seam allowances, mouth seam going the opposite direction of the face seam, it will reduce bulk. Place a pin at the seam after you get it lined up.
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Right sides together pin CHEEK pieces to FACE piece, lining up the 1/2" folds at the ends. Cheek pieces should overlap the mouth and be on top. Make sure you use the correct cheek piece on each side. If it's upside down it will not fit correctly.
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The pinned cheek pieces should look like this. I'm using Wonder Clips on the ends and pins at the seam and 1/4" folds. There will be a gap where my finger is and that's okay! There has to be room to put a filter behind the mouth piece if wanted.
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Sew along the top and bottom edges with a 1/4" seam allowance. DO NOT SEW THE ENDS WITH 1/2" FOLDED EDGES.
