SewLibra:
I rarely use the pattern layout except to check the numbers on the pieces to make sure I have them all. This pattern does not have the numbers on the layout so I had to figure that out myself. Already not a good sign!
SewLibra:
Fortunately there are online instructions on the Paprika Patterns website. I used their princess seam FBA tutorial. Above is a photo from their website, showing what I will be doing.
SewLibra:
The first step was to trace the front and side front, and mark the 5/8" seam allowance. I've made the slash and spread FBA on regular tops, but this was my first princess seam slash and spread.
SewLibra:
Cut the side front vertically at the grain line marking. The website pic had smaller than a 5/8" seam allowance marked, and that threw me off because my line landed ON my SA and theirs didn't. I left it there and it worked though.
SewLibra:
Here I have added 1.75" to achieve my 3.5" FBA. That will equal the bust size of size 7. The rest of the garment is cut in size 5. I wanted a looser fit than the envelope pic and to wear something underneath if I want.
SewLibra:
Here is the side front done and taped. I like Nancy Notion's removable Sewer's Fix It Tape. It's just like paper medical tape but narrower. It comes in a small dispenser and very handy!
SewLibra:
Next I drew a line on the front in the same places the side front had been cut. I lengthened each space the same as I did on the side front. Afterward I measured both seam lines with my Curve Runner to make sure they were the same.
SewLibra:
Here on my finished pieces, however now I have a very wide hem...and I have narrow hips!
SewLibra:
The online instructions do not address widening the hem bands that will attach, nor narrowing the hemline. Another tutorial suggested to just hack it off where my ruler is. That would take off the shape though.
SewLibra:
Thanks to help on the Patternreview.com forum, it was suggested to trace the side seam onto the side front. Simple! I matched up the notches and took out the extra width.
SewLibra:
Finished FBA pieces and I measured all the seam lines to be sure they will fit together.
SewLibra:
I measured the armsyce and it was 2" larger than my measurement so I left it for room to wear a tee underneath. Here you can see what a Curve Runner looks like. To me the 8" is the handiest size for pattern modifications.
SewLibra:
I overlapped all 3 pieces at the seam lines and measured across to make sure I got my expected 43.5" bust. That will give me 2" of ease, which is good for a hoodie. It measured 21.75", exactly half of 43.5". Yay!
SewLibra:
The sleeve with cuff was way too long for me. Btw, this pattern is made for a 5'7" person and I'm 5'3". I needed to remove 2.25" to make it work with the cuffs.
SewLibra:
First I drew a horizontal line across the sleeve right above the elbow area and lined up my clear ruler at 2.25". Just take a pencil and run it across the top of the ruler.
SewLibra:
Fold the bottom line up to the top line and tape. You can true the edge or fold it over if you want to use the pattern for someone else.
SewLibra:
As it turned out, the sleeve and cuff circumference was huge on me! This is the cuff held together with Wonder Clips at the 5/8" seam allowance. Huge! Back to the cutting table now.
SewLibra:
I folded the sleeve in half vertically and took off 3/4", which will take 1 1/2" off the circumference. This worked out perfectly for me!
SewLibra:
I had already cut out the sleeves, so I went back and cut of the extra. I should have traced off the sleeve piece, but really I don't sew for anyone else and I didn't feel like getting the tracing stuff out again!
SewLibra:
Now the cuffs have to fit the sleeves, so I took off the same amount as i did on the sleeves. You can fold the pattern piece in the middle to remove it, or fold and hack it off as I did. The sticky dots are for marking the wrong side of the fabric.
SewLibra:
I cut into the boucle a little to mark notches, but this fabric ravels and my notches were not pronounced. Instead I measured with my gauge for welt placement.
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The instructions recommend basting the welts and I do too! Here I'm making sure the center of the welt is equal to the raw edge on each side of the garment.
SewLibra:
The sewing line on the welt is supposed to be right down the center, however you can't see it. I measured it on each side and made a chalk line as a sewing guide.
SewLibra:
Be very careful when cutting up to your welts. My boucle did not take kindly to this and it caused me some problems.
SewLibra:
Soooo....you end up with 8 silly flaps that might make you want to bang your head against the wall! The paper instructions are useless and you really need to use the online tutorial on the Paprika Patterns website. I. AM. NOT. KIDDING.
SewLibra:
Using ravelly boucle and a mid-weight knit, I kept getting puckers under my welts. I ended up doing it my own way by sewing only the boucle flaps to the welts, from the wrong side of the fabric.
SewLibra:
This is what it looked like while sewing the boucle to the welt ends. Those flaps are cut off in the end anyway...well at least the way I did it!
